
ROSCOE M. WOOD 
HENRY L. WARDWELL 
SPECIAL CONTRIBUTORS 



Published by 

THE S. R. FEIL CO., MTg. Chemists, 

CLEVELAND, OHIO 




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SPECIAL CONTRIBUTORS 

MR. ROSCOE M. WOOD 
MR. HENRY L. WARD WELL 



Published by 

THE S. R. FEIL CO., Mfg. Chemists, 
CLEVELAND, OHIO 



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Sheep Book, Illustrated Price 50 cts. 

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Copyright, 1912, 

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PREFACE 



There is much pleasure and 
profit in sheep husbandry for 
the man who will be pa- 
tient, painstaking, and ener- 
getic enough to give them pro- 
per care. 

Every farm should have its 
flock of sheep just as much as 
its hogs, cattle and horses, for 
the sheep fills a place of its 
own, among farm animals. 

Their rapid increase in num- 
bers, quick maturity, ability to 
pick a living almost anywhere, 
the value of their fleece, and 
the benefit of their droppings 
in fertilizing land together 
with an usually good market 
price, make them a sure source 
of profit to the man who faithfully sticks to them. 

The greatest drawback to the sheep raising busi- 
ness in times past, has been the deadly worms which in- 
fest the pastures and find their way with the animals' 
food, into the stomach and intestines. I am glad that it 
has fallen to my lot to deal the death blow to these 
destructive parasites, and I appreciate keenly the words 
of commendation of such men as Henry L. Wardwell, 
J. C. Duncan, Robert Blastock, Geo. McKerrow, Jas. 
Leet, C. O. Judd and thousands of other sheep breeders, 
who unite in saying that in "Sal-Vet" lies the salvation 
of the sheep business in America. 

Sidney R. Feil, Pres., 
The S. R. Feil Co., Cleveland, Ohio. 






Mr. ROSCOE M. WOOD 



Successful Sheep Raising 

By ROSCOE M. WOOD, Saline, Mich. 

T OCCURRED to us that 

a practical everyday treatise 

on the care and handling 

of sheep, that would appeal 

to the general farmer who 
keeps a flock of sheep, as a part of his 
general farm curriculum, and which 
will be of real service to him in making 
that flock a source of profit and pleas- 
ure, would be appreciated by American 
farmers, who believe sheep are neces- 
sary to the proper conduct of a 
twentieth century American farm. 
With that idea in mind this article has been written. 
Concise and practical, we have aimed to present nothing 
here, but what any farmer with good common sense can 
do, and which we have learned from our own experience, 
has been profitable. Much of it may be trite to the 
experienced shepherd, but we would say that we are not 
writing this for his benefit ; we are weaving no fine 
spun theories, neither are we presenting methods possible 
only to the specialty sheep breeder or the wealthy faddist. 
This is for the plain everyday farmer, who may perhaps 
learn something new, or, at least, have the old recalled 
and forcibly impressed upon his mind. 

The plan of the book is based on the care of a flock 
of ewes during the year, beginning with their selection 
in the fall, their breeding, care during the winter, the 
raising of the lambs, the handling of the flock during 
the summer, until we again come to the fall, with its 
culling and the starting of operations for another year. 
Methods described are practical and applicable to general 



Page Five 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



conditions as found on farms in the north central states; 
there are always special exceptions, which may only prove 
the rule. 

This is intended for the farmer with a small flock of 
ewes, as such flocks are handled on the average farm in 
this country, not for sheep that are handled in large 
bands, under range conditions, for we feel sure that 
there are more men engaged in this branch of the sheep 
business than in any other, even if they do not handle as 
many sheep. And we venture to say that the develop- 
ment of the country will gradually bring an increasingly 
larger proportion of the business to the conditions of the 
farm and the small flock. 

Statistics show that sheep are not increasing in 
numbers in the United States, while the population is 
increasing rapidly ; in spite of this, prices of wool and 
mutton are lower at times than conditions of supply and 
demand would seem to warrant, and certainly below the 
cost of production. Then it seems as if the farmers are 
like their sheep, they see one go and all the rest want to 
follow. One sells and quits the business, everybody 
wants to sell ; by the time many of them are out of 
the business, sheep advance in price, and there is a 
scramble to get back into sheep. Nothing can be 
accomplished by such methods. The only way to get 
the most profits from them, is to raise sheep all the time, 
sell your surplus every year at the market price; in the 
long run, such system will win. 

Aside from the necessity of sticking to the business 
there are certain conditions which require sheep on the 
average American farm. The percentage of farmers 
who can specialize and devote all their time and energy 
to one branch of farming, is very small ; the great 
majority must do general farming. These farmers keep 



Page Six 



SUCCESSFUL SHEEP RAISING 









A {lock of sheep solve the problem of soil fertility. 

cattle and hogs and chickens, and raise grain for market; 
they carry numbers of each in proportion to the condi- 
tions of feed and market. With this other stock, sheep 
should hold just as important place in the economy and 
profit of the general farm curriculum. 

One of the great problems of present day agriculture, 
is the maintenance of soil fertility, and there is no one 
factor that furnishes greater aid in its solution, than 
sheep. Nothing builds up the producing power of a 
farm so quickly, so cheaply, and so well, as sheep manure. 
But for the development of the sheep and lamb feeding 
industry, whereby the "woolies" came to the farms, 
converted grain and roughage into wool and mutton and 
manure, and the latter returned to the soil to feed 
and aid it in producing the next crop, many farms in 



Page Seven 



SAL-VET SHEEiP BOOK 



Michigan, Ohio and other states, worn out with wheat 
and grain growing, would now be in the same class as 
the abandoned farms of the far eastern states. The 
value of sheep manure as a fertilizer, has been shown so 
clearly and so forcibly, that now this erstwhile waste which 
accumulates at the big feeding stations around Chicago, is 
bought, pressed into small cakes by machinery and sold 
at a cent a pound, and even more, to the farmers who 
plant this with their corn. Sheep manure means rich 
soil. Show us a farmer who keeps sheep and tends 
them well, and we will show you a productive farm and a 
prosperous farmer. 

In addition to the great value of the manure, sheep 
consume and convert into marketable form, a large 
amount of roughage which would otherwise be wasted 
or, at least, would not yield nearly as good returns, as 
when eaten by sheep. In fact, the feed of a sheep requires 
a very small proportion of grain, compared to the roughage, 
and it can be handled at the minimum cost for labor. 
For instance, how can corn stalks, or oat straw, or 
clover hay be marketed so cheaply and so advantageously 
and bring so great returns, as by feeding to sheep? The 
farmer thus sells his finished product in the shape of 
wool and meat, and returns the waste, in the form of 
manure, to enrich his farm, realizing the greatest possible 
returns from everything involved in the process. Like- 
wise in summer, the sheep will eat the weeds in the 
stubble fields, and clean up any young brush which may 
have grown on the farm, and do well on such feed for a 
few days at a time. Thus they do good work in 
destroying this undesirable growth, and at the same time, 
turn to valuable use, an otherwise troublesome and 
obnoxious product. 

Page Eight 



SUCCESSFUL SHEEP RAISING 



The labor problem, which is perplexing and expen- 
sive on most farms, is simplified by sheep, for while there 
are certain seasons when they need close attention, as at 
lambing time, yet throughout a great part of the year 
they get their own feed, and what attention is required, 
can usually be given when convenient, or when other 
work is less pressing. In the busy summer months they 
do not have to be fed twice a day, nor do they require 
milking. When in the pasture they spread their own 
manure, and do it better than can any man or machine. 
They do their own work to a greater extent, than any 
other domestic animal. 

The amount of capital required to secure a flock of 
sheep is very small, while the returns come quickly. Often 
we have seen men buy ewes in the spring, and in less 
than six months, get enough from the wool and the 
lambs, to more than pay the cost of the ewes. The ewe 
is like a semi-annual interest-bearing bond, you can clip 
your coupons twice a" year. In the spring you have a 
wool clip which ordinarily pays for the feed of the ewe, 
while in the fall you have a lamb, a large part of which 
should represent profit. Nor are expensive barns or 
sheds necessary; a building which will protect sheep 
from rain, snow and wind is the main requisite. Light- 
weight fences answer every purpose in keeping sheep 
where they belong on the farm. Expense for racks and 
troughs is also at a minimum. 

These are but a few of the more prominent consid- 
erations and inducements, which sheep raising presents 
to the general farmer. 

Page Nine 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



The Ewe Flock 



"Well begun is half done," is especially true in the 
sheep business. It is absolutely essential to have a good 
flock of ewes, if you expect to make them the most 
profitable. The best is always cheapest, so it is penny 
wise and pound foolish, to scrimp on the quality of the 
ewe flock with the vain idea that you are saving a few 
dollars. The extra money that you invest in securing 




Have a tfood flock with which to start. 

better quality of ewes, will be returned to you many 
times, by the increased returns on your investment. 
Make up your mind to have a good flock to start with. 
It costs no more to feed a good sheep, than a poor one, 
and the returns are infinitely greater. 



Page Ten 



THE EWE FLOCK 



Almost the first thing many farmers ask is, "What 
breed shall I buy?" The question of breed is not so 
material, provided it is adapted to the conditions of 
climate, soil and markets, under which you must run 
your flock. The main thing is for you to be satisfied 
with it, and feel that you can make the greatest success 
with it. Under general average conditions, good Merino 
ewes give very good results; the smooth, big-boned kind, 
that produce a good fleece of wool, and raise a market- 
able lamb. They are generally hardy, most resistant 
to disease and easiest to secure. If you prefer some of 
the mutton breeds, select the one you think best adapted 
to your conditions, and try to get ewes as nearly pure 
bred as possible. 

The important thing about any farmer's flock of 
ewes, is that they be uniform, of one grade, of one line 
of breeding, of one size and the same quality. Too 
many farmers have an idea that the more breeds or the 
more mixtures that are represented in their flock, the 
better is the flock ; nothing could be further from the 
truth. The flock in which every ewe appears to be the 
duplicate of the other, is the one which appeals to buyers, 
and which brings profit to its keeper. They produce a 
clip of wool in which the fleeces are all the same grade 
and quality, they raise a bunch of lambs that are all 
alike ; this means an increase in the price over the 
mixed lot, when you are ready to sell. 

Realizing the necessity of uniformity in your flock, 
it is important that you select the right type of an indi- 
vidual, as your ideal ewe. The first thing to 
avoid is extremes in any particular, either of size or 
fleece. Medium size and good form is essential. 
Constitution is very important ; a heavy boned fore leg 
and a wide, deep chest indicate that. A good head, not 

Page Eleven 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 





A champion American-bred Shropshire, from the flock of Henry L. Wardwel 
Springfield Center, N. Y. 

too long, with a clean cut nostril, a clear eye, a good 
neck, a little thin and long as compared to a ram, a 
good back with a full heart girth, strong shoulder and 
well sprung rib, a short, square rump and a straight 
hind leg. These are the main essentials in a typical ewe. 
Satisfied as to the form, look to the fleece. Secure 
as heavy fleece as possible, without impairing the mutton 
faculties. A thick fleece carrying some oil and with as 
good staple as possible for the weight, should be required. 
Staple is especially important, but you can not sacrifice 
too much weight for staple ; for the longer the staple, 
the lighter the fleece; the heavier the fleece, the shorter 



Page Twelve 



THE EWE FLOCK 



the staple; it is as near the happy medium as possi- 
ble that you want. The fleece should be of even quality 
as possible, all over the body, generally with good head 
and leg covering; the latter indicates good breeding. 
Fineness of fiber is generally to be desired, as well 
as oil in the fleece ; both add to its value and to 
its weight. A harsh, dry fleece, as well as a long, 
open one, are to be avoided. A healthy pink skin 
should be in evidence ; too dark or too pale skins, indi- 
cate other faults. 

Fine boned, ill-shaped, weakly constituted sheep 
should be rejected, regardless of any special excellencies ; 
likewise the one with a thin, light fleece, of inferior 
quality. Sheep too long-legged, should find no place in 



Hampshire Ewe, at Walnut Hall Stock Farm, Donerail, Ky. 

Page Thirteen 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



the flock ; neither should the little, squatty, dumpy ewe, 
that is made in a mold two or more sizes too small, be 
chosen. Such ewes are often nice to look at, but 
seldom prove satisfactory breeders. Rather select the 
larger, broader, roomier kind, which convert much of 
their feed into milk for the lamb, at the proper time. In 
all things seek the happy medium ; it is the well-propor- 
tioned ewe, that has no pronounced defects, that will pro- 
duce the best results. In this as in all things else, com- 
mon sense and judgment must be used. 



The Ram 




Rambouillet Ram, owned by King Bros., Laramie, Wyo. 

Page Fourteen 



THE RAM 



With a good flock of ewes, a good ram is required 
if you expect to raise a good crop of lambs. For the 
ram is half the flock, and, in many cases, he has proved 
to be nearly the whole flock. The reputations of many 
great live stock breeders have been made by their 
selection and use of animals which developed into great 
sires. An extraordinary good sire will so impress his 
good characteristics upon his progeny, that you can not 
estimate his value ; likewise the damage of an inferior 
one, can not be computed. Too many fail to appreciate 
this fact. Often have we seen men buy the best ewes 
they could obtain, and then, for the sake of a few dollars, 
fail to buy the best ram they could get. The difference 
in value of the first crop of lambs, will far more than 
pay for the difference in cost of a good ram, and a poor 
one. Good things in this world cost. It has cost 
labor, brains, and time to produce that ram, and the 
breeder is entitled to compensation for his product. 
Remember that you are not buying the mere pounds of 
wool and mutton, which compose that particular indi- 
vidual ram, but the increased value you expect to obtain 
in the crop of lambs you will raise from him. 

Having in your mind a picture of the type of ram 
you need, look for one that conforms closely to your 
ideal, and when you find it, do not let a few dollars stand 
in the way of your getting it. Do not wait until the 
day you are ready to use your ram, before you think 
about buying him. He should be bought, at least, a 
month before you need to use him, so he can become 
accustomed to the changes of feed and location ; not 
only that, but the earlier in the season you look for him, 
the better selection you will find from which to choose, 
and the more probability of finding what you want. 

Page Fifteen 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 




Champion Ram, owned by Geo. McKerrow & Sons, Pewaukee, Wis. 

In selecting the ram, buy one that is all ram. A 
ram that looks like a ewe, or is effeminate in any way, 
will prove a worthless breeder. He should be active and 
vigorous, full of life and vim. A broad, strong head, not 
too long, a large foreleg, with a wide, deep chest, a 
broad shoulder, a well-sprung rib, good loin, square 
rump and straight hind leg, are all essential indications 
of a ram that will impress his characteristics upon his 
progeny. As to fleece characteristics, much that we 
have said about the ewes, applies with equal force to the 
ram. Select the square, well-made ram with broad 
front and straight hind quarters, well let down ; the 
long-legged, loose-jointed, ill-shaped, hollow-backed rams, 
will do you no good. 



Page Sixteen 



THE RAM 



*. 





Southdown Ram, owned by Chas. Leet & Son, Mantua, Ohio 

In this connection we wish to impress on the 
trader the necessity of taking one breed and sticking to 
that breed. It matters not what the breed may be, you 
can not make headway in the improvement of your flock, 
by crossing breeds. Crossing is never permissible when 
one expects to maintain the flock from the ewe increase. 
Breeding sheep, or any live stock for that matter, is not 
like making a sandwich, as many farmers apparently 
think. To obtain improvement in any given char- 
acteristic, or in a harmonious combination, strict ad- 
herence to the laws of breeding must be observed. 
It does not stand to reason that any farmer, with a 
flock of sheep, can cross breeds, and in the course 

Page Seventeen 




Cotswold Ram, owned by F. W. Harding, Waukesha, Wis. 

ot two or three ur four crosses, produce something better 
than anything that the best breeders of the world have 
produced, after having devoted years and years to breeding 
and improving their favorites. There are plenty of breeds, 
each having individual characteristics, particularly adapted 
to certain conditions of climajte and soil. Determine 
which breed is best adapted to your conditions, buy good 
animals, and then stay with it. 

Individual merit and good breeding to back it up, 
are "absolutely essential in any ram you use ; either one 
alone, loses much of its value without the other. Buy a 
purebred ram, for his breeding is your insurance of the 
ability of the ram to transmit his good characteristics. 
Experiment stations and private individuals have demon- 
strated in every possible way, that the purebred ram is 
vastly superior to "any old ram," in the quality of the 

Page Eighteen 



THE RAM 



lambs he gets and the prices they bring. While we 
want the pedigree to show on his back, yet we want to 
know that his ancestors were good individuals, and good 
animals which have been worth keeping purebred and 
registered, are assured of that. 

Buying of good, reliable breeders is safest in this 
respect, for rams bred by such men, are reasonably 
sure to be choicely bred and to give good results. Then, 
unless you know all there is to know about sheep, their 
judgment and opinions may be of value to you in making 
your selection. Many times an animal which may not 
be particularly prepossessing in appearance, may prove a 
better sire than one which appears better as an indi- 
vidual, due to the better breeding of the former ; in fact 
many of the great sires have been far from being prize- 
winners. Good breeders have said that they wanted to 
see the dam when they were selecting a sire, as by her, 
they could judge much as to the value of her lamb, as a 
sire. So in the selection of a ram, the farmer will 
receive much aid from the honest breeder, who under- 
stands the breeding of his sheep, the value of good 
blood in a sire, and the peculiar excellencies of the 
various lines of breeding within his flock. If he knows 
the purposes for which the farmer wants a ram, he can 
many times make a distinction between individuals, 
from his knowledge of their breeding, which will prove 
valuable to the buyer. 

It is generally not good policy to buy a ram that 
has been fitted for show, for it requires skill and time to 
reduce such rams to a breeding condition, and the aver- 
age farmer has neither the time nor the experience to do 
this; besides, sometimes in the fitting, actual damage has 
been done to the ram, so that he is not a good breeder. 
A ram should be in good, thriving condition, so he can 

Page Nineteen 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



show something of what he really is, but his useful- 
ness to the farmer, depends upon how he has secured 
that condition. A ram that has run in the field, securing 
lots of exercise, and gaining condition from feeds which 
produce growth and muscle instead of fat, is far more 
valuable for service to the farmer, than a highly fitted 
ram, that has been kept in the barn. On the other 
hand, one should not buy a ram that is thin, and be- 
cause the breeder recommends him as being hardy and 
being able to stand poor feed and privation. There may 
be a reason for the lamb being thin, which, if known, 
would make him valueless to the buyer. A serviceable, 
desirable ram should be in good, thriving condition, so he 
can beget good, strong lambs. One wants to know that 
a ram has certain desirable characteristics, and the best 
way to be sure of it, is to have the ram well developed 
and in good condition ; they can not be brought out and 
the ram show what he really is, by starving him. Good 
blood is of little value without good care and plenty 
feed, and it requires a judicious combination of all these, 
to produce improvement. The good breeder will not be 
offering rams in thin, unserviceable condition. 

In this connection comes the matter of weight. 
The first question many men ask is, "How much does 
he weigh ?" The mere matter of pounds does not spell 
anything, for if it be fat, put on with fat-producing 
feeds, it is a detriment instead of a benefit, and it takes 
fat to weigh. Rather seek bone and good form and a 
growthy condition, obtained by proper methods and feed. 
Then if the ram has the proper conformation and breed 
characteristics, the matter of weight will take care of it- 
self. The extremely large ram is not to be desired ; the 
biggest rams are seldom the best. To be sure, one 
wants good size and strong constitution, but the medium 

Page Twenty 



THE RAM 



sized ram is more evenly balanced in all respects, and is 
more sure to transmit his good qualities to his produce. 
The very large ram, when bred on a flock of average 
good ewes of uniform quality, begets a more uneven lot 
of lambs, and many of the latter will show long legs and 
ill-shaped bodies, aside from other weaknesses, especially 
of fleece. The desire of many men for great size in 
their flock, goes beyond reasonable limits, and they over- 
look many other factors which are more important. 
Rather seek uniformity and good conformation ; try to 
see how good a lamb you can produce and how cheaply. 
The more economically you can make a pound of wool, 
or of mutton, the more profit you will have. This has 
never been done with the biggest sheep. 

When you have secured a good ram and he proves 
a satisfactory breeder, keep him just as long as you can. 
Many think it necessary to change rams every year, 
but this is not good business, unless the ram is a poor 
breeder, or gives only average results. A ram which is a 
good breeder and is imprinting his characteristics on his 
lambs, should be retained just as long as the ewes, to 
which he is being bred, are not related to him. 



foAdtiad^&i 


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1 













Shropshire Rams, 

Page Twenty- one 



The Breeding Season 

With a good flock of ewes and a ram of the proper 
quality and breeding to mate with them, you have a 
good start in the sheep business. But good sheep, no 
more than anything else, can live on their breeding ; they 
must have good care and plenty feed, if you expect to se- 
cure maximum profits from them. They require the 
little attentions when they need them; not the day after, 
or the week after, but at the time. They can get along 
on short, unsuitable food if necessary, but they respond 
nobly to plenty, producing large returns upon the invest- 
ment. Too many farmers have a mistaken idea that the 
sheep should live and thrive on what is left, after all other 
stock and crops have had the proper attention. They 
think any old thing is good enough for the sheep. No 
stock does best when it lacks proper care or the most 
suitable feed, and it requires the best of both, to produce 
the most profit. Sheep are no exception to this ; and 
when given such care and feed, no animal returns greater 
profits from the labor and investment involved. 

The beginning of a year's work with sheep is the 
breeding season, and no small degree of success depends 
upon the care and feed at this time. The ewes must be 
in good, thriving condition. Ewes that have suckled 
lambs during the preceding summer, are often liable to 
have become thin in flesh, and it is important that they 
be so handled, that they gain enough to get in good con- 
dition, even if it is necessary to feed them grain, previous 
to and during breeding. A mixture of corn and oats, 
equal parts by weight, Yz pound per head, fed in the 
troughs when the flock comes to the barn at night, will 
be a great help to them. 

At least two weeks before you begin to breed, it is 
essential that the ewes be run on a timothy or blue grass 

Page Twenty-two 



THE BREEDING SEASON 



pasture ; a new seeding or a clover pasture should be 
avoided, as the effect of such pasture, is to prevent the 
ewes from becoming settled in lamb. 

The time of breeding depends upon when you wish to 
have your lambs come. In these northern states, breeders 
calculate to have their lambs come any time from Febru- 
ary to April, according to the individual conditions and 
ideas. It depends upon how one is fixed to take care of 
the new-born lambs, both as to feed and shelter, and the 
necessity for the latter. There are advantages and dis- 
advantages on both sides. Generally speaking, the 
earlier lambs bring higher prices, because as they require 
more labor and expense to produce; there are not so many 
of them, and they are ready for market before the big 
rush in the fall. They are also less liable to the ravages 
of stomach worms in the early part of the summer. 
They come at a time of the year when the general 
farmer has plenty time to care for them. But they 
require a warm barn ; zero weather and an open shed 
do not agree with young lambs. The ewes demand 
more and better feed previous to lambing, and there is 
not the opportunity to make use of the roughage on the 
average farm, to as economical advantage. More roots 
and succulent feed are required, as well as more grain. 
It is much more difficult to keep the lambs growing 
under such conditions, than later in the season, when 
they can have green grass and sunshine and exercise. 
The best way is to strike as near a happy medium as 
possible; and this we have found to be about March, 
varying earlier or later, according to the climate and the 
individual conditions. This means breeding the ewes in 
October, inasmuch as the period of gestation in ewes is 
approximately five months, although scientists claim it is 
one hundred and forty-five days. 

Page Twenty-three 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 




Prize-winning Hampshires, from the flock of C. O, Judd, Kent, Ohio 

Before breeding, care should be taken that the ewes 
are well tagged, which is the shearing of all wet, dirty 
wool or tag locks, from the hind parts. Oftentimes a ewe 
has been scouring or the urine has dripped on the wool 
and made it filthy; all this should be trimmed off, and 
the ewe kept clean and healthy. This is most easily 
done by catching and throwing her on her side. Also 
where ewes lamb before shearing, it is best to tag them 
well before lambing begins, as it will save much trouble 
for the lamb in helping itself. Likewise ewes, which, for 
any reason, have become dirty during the summer or fall, 
should be well tagged, before going into winter quarters. 

Here a word as to catching sheep : there is a right 
way and a wrong way, and too many do it the wrong 
way. Do not catch a sheep by the wool. Every time 
we see a man catch a sheep by the wool, we feel like 

Page Twenty-four 



THE BREEDING SEASON 



catching him by the hair ; it is the same thing in both 
cases. The easiest and surest way to catch a sheep, is to 
grasp the hind leg just above the gambrel ; in this way 
you are more sure of catching it if it be moving; 
it is easier for both man and sheep, and there is no 
danger of hurting either one. By catching below the 
gambrel, there is danger of breaking the leg, as there is 
only the bone, and a quick jerk or a throw, is liable to 
snap it. Grasped by the gambrel with one hand, you 
can pull the sheep back, throw the other hand around 
the neck, and easily set the animal on his rump or side, as 
you may wish, without injury or undue exertion. Of 
course, there is a little knack about it, which it takes 
practice to perfect. In handling ewes heavy with lamb, 
it is safer to grasp around the neck with one arm ; if you 
wish to turn them down, grasp the hind leg nearest to 
you, pull forward and push under the ewe, at the same 
time pushing her body, with your other hand, toward 
yourself ; thus she will lie down easily and without 
injury. 

The general method of breeding, is to turn the ram 
with the flock of ewes and let them go without further 
care, which is very reprehensible conduct on the part of 
the shepherd. The most practical way we have found, 
with the least labor, is to turn the ram with the ewes 
during the day ; take him out at night and put him by 
himself where he can be fed his grain, which should be 
considerably more than he would get if running with the 
flock all the time. Such method requires but little labor, 
for the ewes should come to the barn every night for 
their grain and shelter from the storms, at this season. It 
takes but a minute to take the ram out of the flock, and 
he soon learns where to go, when he learns there is a 
good feed of grain awaiting him. Then he will eat a 

Page Twenty-five 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



good feed of hay, rest during the night, having his 
morning mess of grain before going with the flock, and 
when they go to the pasture, he is rested and fresh for 
another day's work. 

This is better than keeping the ram in the barn 
days, and putting with the ewes nights, for the ewes are 
all up and stirring during the day ; there is not as much 
chance of the ram missing any in heat, and the ram will 
work during the day, and rest at night. Otherwise he 
will be uneasy and restless during the day, and at night 
many of the ewes will be lying down. What little labor 
and feed that the method described demands, is paid for 
many times by the better condition of both ram and 
ewes, and the stronger lambs that you will get. 

The breeding season should last from thirty to 
forty days; for while the breeding period of a ewe 
should be every seventeen days, yet there often is one 
missed the first time around, and some do not settle at 
the first breeding. So that to insure that all are bred, 
this length of time is required. 

One ram will breed from fifty to sixty ewes if prop- 
erly and carefully handled in this way, and he is a strong, 
robust ram of mature age. Many farmers think it 
economy to use a lamb, because the first outlay is not so 
large. This is a great mistake, for the lamb can not 
breed nearly as many ewes as an older ram, and the lambs 
from him will not be as strong after the first few ewes 
bred; then there is much danger of seriously injuring the 
growth of the lamb, through over-service. 

In the feed for the ram, we have found the best to 
be timothy hay, or hay mixed with a very little clover, 
for roughage, while the grain should be four parts oats, 
one part corn, about a quart to a feed, for an average 
ram, and to this add a handful of whole wheat. Clover, 

Page Twenty-six 



THE BREEDING SEASON 



which is the best roughage for sheep at all other seasons, 
either as pasture or hay, is strictly tabooed during the 
breeding season. 

If it be desired to breed an unusually large number 
of ewes to one ram for any reason, more service can be 
obtained without damage to the ram or the lamb crop, by 
using the following method : Take another ram to "try 
out" the ewe flock every morning, which ram will find 
all that are in heat, put such ewes in a pen in the barn 
during the day, allowing the ram in service to serve one 
at stated periods during the day, but allowing but one 
service to a ewe. A record can thus be made of the 
ewes, and the date of breeding, so that when it comes 
lambing time, the shepherd will know closely when they 
will lamb. This method requires more labor, but is 
repaid by the greater service secured from a single ram. 



Winter Care 

After breeding, comes the care and feed of the ewe 
flock, during the winter previous to lambing, which is 
likewise important; for the proper care and feed are as 
necessary for the lamb before birth, as after, although not 
so close attention is required in its early stages. 

Subsequent to breeding, the ewes can run on almost 
any pasture which furnishes ample feed, although a 
timothy or blue grass pasture is generally best, until 
snow or lack of grass forces their being kept at the 
barn and fed dry fodder. For this, good corn fodder and 
nice bright straw, form good roughage, especially for a 
morning feed, while good clover hay makes a palatable 
evening meal for them. A feed of grain, two parts oats, 

Page Twenty-seven 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 




Large, dry, open yards are essential. 

one part corn, one part bran, by measure, one bushel 
per day, to fifty head, should be given until near lambing 
time. As to the amount of roughage, they should have 
all they will eat up clean ; they should not be allowed to 
waste any, for it is waste that eats up the profits. 
Neither should they be stinted, for it takes feed to grow 
wool and mutton, and as long as the sheep make good 
use of it, they are making more money for you that way, 
than any other in which you can market your feed. 

In addition to proper feed and plenty of it, there is 
another requisite to a good lamb crop, and that is, plenty 
exercise and fresh air for the ewes. Close warm barns 
are not good for the ewes ; likewise is the large open 
yard essential. Here the ewes can get exercise, which 
they need, in order to insure a strong, healthy lamb in the 

Page Twenty- eight 



WINTER CARE 



spring ; the exercise is just as necessary as the feed. 
You cannot put a flock of ewes in lamb, into a small pen 
in a barn, feed them highly all winter, and expect to 
raise any lambs. 

They should be protected from all storms, especially 
rains, and the pens or barns should be so situated that 
there are no draughts. But the barns should not be 
closed tightly unless it might be in extremely severe, 
stormy weather. Sheep have a good coat of wool which 
keeps them warm, even as clothes protect a man. Like- 
wise do they want fresh air when they sleep. Keeping 
the door on the south side of the barn open, will accom- 
plish this purpose very well. 

In feeding the roughage, feed the corn stalks out in 
the yard, which every farmer should have adjacent to his 
sheep barn ; likewise the straw if you prefer ; or the 
latter can be put in the racks inside, in the morning; the 
ewes can pick it over during the day, and at evening, 
feed that is left, can be thrown out for bedding. Straw 
should be fed in racks, but the corn stalks can be fed on 
the ground where the ewes can pick at them. We have 
also found a very economical and satisfactory method, 
the early part of the season following breeding, to be to 
feed the ewes shock corn. Judgment must be used in 
feeding this, and care must be taken to scatter the corn 
thoroughly, so that no single sheep will get too 
much ; also the ewes must be furnished abundant exer- 
cise. A very good method is to have their water some 
little distance from the feed, which necessitates their 
walking every day. But this feed should not be given 
during the latter part of the period of pregnancy. Good 
clover hay, with some grain, and a short time before 
lambing, the feeding of roots or other succulent feed, is 

Page Twenty-nine 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



necessary in order to induce a sufficient flow of milk to 
properly nourish the lamb. 

Fresh, clean water is absolutely necessary. No 
animals are so clean as sheep; especially are they 
particular about their water and their grain troughs. 
Dirt or filth will effectually keep them away ; they will 
go hungry and thirsty, rather than suffer manure in their 
feed or water. Some farmers seem to think that sheep 
need water only occasionally, but it is just as necessary to 
them as to man ; it is just as important as feed. Where 
there is not a running stream available, a half barrel or a 
common washtub, make the best watering tubs. They 
are cheap, convenient, and easily cleaned. Where there 
is a waterworks system on the farm, a small trough hold- 
ing not to exceed a barrel of water and filled through a 
valve, attached to a float is a very convenient, labor- 
saving arrangement. 

Salt is also necessary. This can be kept in a box 
where they may have access to it at their pleasure, and 
as their appetite demands, or it can be fed to them at 
stated intervals. With the former method, it is abso- 
lutely essential that it be kept there all the time ; for if 
the box is allowed to become empty, when it is refilled 
some of them will get more than they need, and disas- 
trous results will follow, even to absolute loss. With 
the other method, a proper amount can be scattered in 
the grain troughs once or twice a week. For salt, we 
use almost exclusively "Sal-Vet," a medicated stock salt. 
We feed it not only in the summer to the lambs, 
but we have found it economical and beneficial for the 
ewes in winter ; it acts as a conditioner, and will drive 
out the stomach worms which may be present in their 
systems. Another good method of feeding salt where 

Page Thirty 



WINTER CARE 




Let no other stock run in the sheep yard. 

straw is being fed, is to make a strong brine, all the salt 
that the water will dissolve, and spread on the straw. It 
makes the straw more palatable, and the sheep get salt 
in proper amount. 

During the winter there are two requisites of sen- 
sible and successful care of breeding ewes ; they must be 
kept dry, both underfoot and overhead, and other stock, 
such as horses, cattle, or hogs, must not run in the same 
yard with them. Wet, muddy yards, mean sore feet and 
wasted feed. Other stock in the yard, means injured 
ewes and loss of lambs; besides the ewes will be driven 
from their feed. Narrow doorways or gates must be 
avoided, as well as sharp corners. Nothing will injure 



Page Thirty- one 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



ewes and cause abortion, quicker than a little, narrow 
door, through which ewes have to crowd, or some 
sharp corner. Crowding is to be avoided at all times, 
either by scaring the flock by some unusual noise, or in- 
tentionally, and all obstructions must be prevented. 

The sheep pen should be kept well bedded with 
straw or other roughage at all times, as a matter of clean- 
liness and of profit. It is not only much healthier for 
the sheep to have a clean place on which to stand and 
lie, but by keeping well bedded, more manure is made, 
and sheep manure is valuable on any farm. It is some- 
thing of which you never get too much. The pen 
should be cleaned often enough during the winter, so 
that the manure does not become so deep that it heats 
or interferes with the sheep eating in the hay racks. It 
should be drawn and spread upon the land. This work 
can be conveniently and economically done in winter, 
instead of waiting until the rush of spring work. Es- 
pecially important is it that the pen be cleaned just be- 
fore lambing begins. 

Exercise and fresh air at all times, proper feed, and 
sensible care of the breeding ewes, will do much to insure 
a good lamb crop. 



Preparations for Lambing 



About two weeks before the ewes are due to begin 
to lamb, a change in feed is due them. They should 
have more grain, and clover hayjtwice a day. Roots are 
also essential, or some succulent*feed. Grass is the best 
known milk producer, and when that is not obtainable, 
some substitute must be provided, in the form of a suc- 
culent feed. We have found roots in the form of sugar 

Page Thirty-two 



PREPARATIONS FOR LAMBING 




Keep the ewes quiet and undisturbed. 

mangels, or stock feeding beets, as they are known, to 
be the best for this purpose. They are cheap and easy 
to raise. A little batch of one half to one acre on one 
side of your corn field, well tended, will raise a large 
amount of cheap feed. The main labor of hoeing and 
thinning can be done in the damp of the mornings in 
haying time, while the necessary cultivating can be done 
at the proper times, just as you would tend a patch of po- 
tatoes or corn. If you have never tried them, the yield 
will surprise you. For feeding the ewes they should be 
cut into slices, which can be done with a root cutter 
made for the purpose. They can be fed either as a sep- 
arate feed at noon, or they can be mixed with the other 



Page Thirty-three 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



grain, and fed with it morning and night. We believe 
the latter the better system, especially when the ewes 
are not used to eating the roots. 

In the absence of roots, dried beet pulp, where 
available, is a good feed ; wheat bran is necessary in any 
case. Feed corn sparingly, or not at all. Oats, bran, 
and roots, with all the clover or alfalfa hay they want, 
makes an ideal ration, and is practically essential to se- 
cure best results. Use judgment in feeding it. Start 
with an amount equal to that which the ewes have been 
accustomed during the winter, gradually increase it, so that 
by the time the lamb is a week old, the ewe is eating 
about all she wants. 

Before lambing, especial care should be taken to 
keep the ewes quiet and free from scares which cause 
crowding and danger of injury. When anyone goes 
among them, he should go slowly, keeping to the outside 
of the pen, thus giving the ewes a chance to move out 
of his way, without becoming scared or crowding. All 
yelling or other unusual noises, should be avoided. 

Small pens about 3x5 feet should be provided, so 
that when a ewe does not own her lamb, or has twins, 
or you want to make a ewe adopt a lamb, you have a 
place already for such conditions. These can be made 
alongside the hay rack, thus making a rack for them, 
while old pans make good grain dishes for such pens. 

Immediately preceding lambing, not so much exer- 
cise is needed, but even a little, such as can be secured 
in a good sized yard adjacent to the pen, is very de- 
sirable. In fact, a properly located, well drained yard, 
is just as essential for a good sheep equipment, as is a 
barn or shed. Here the flock should always go for its 
grain, except it might be in a storm, and while the ewes 

Page Thirty-four 



PREPARATIONS FOR LAMBING 



are eating their grain, the farmer can be feeding them 
their hay. Crowding is thus avoided, as is the danger of 
getting chaff in the wool, while all are eating grain at 
the same time, and each getting its share. Care should 
be taken to spread the grain in the trough evenly, not 
a lot and then a little as some do, which causes crowding 
and the weaker sheep, which needs the grain most, is 
pushed away, while others get too much. 

By feeding in the yard, the feeder readily notices any 
sheep that may be indisposed or off feed. He is wasting 
no time waiting for the sheep to eat their grain, for 
he is busy feeding the hay, and in doing this, keeps 
all dirt and chaff out of the wool. This matter of keep- 
ing chaff out of the wool is important, for a clip of 
chaffy wool, means a reduction of two to four cents a 
pound, from the price of a clean clip. Neither hay nor 
straw should be fed over the backs of the sheep, nor should 
they be allowed to run to a straw stack as they want, 
and while doing it be filling their heads, necks, and 
backs with chaff. Put it in the racks or in small piles 
around the yard, so that the chaff will not get into the 
wool. 

Lambing 

Lambing is the sheepman's harvest, and it behooves 
him to look well to his business. It is close work, night 
and day for a little while, but it is necessary to success. 
The life or death of every lamb means the addition or 
subtraction of so many dollars from the year's work. 
When you look at that dead lamb and then calculate 
how many dollars that represents, your ambition may 
be spurred to greater effort with the next one. 

Page Thirty -five 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



When a ewe looks gaunt and hollow, stands off in 
one corner by herself, and occasionally draws up her 
hips, you may know if all is well, there will soon be a 
new lamb, within six to eighteen hours. As her time 
approaches, she will become uneasy, lying down and 
getting up quite often, and occasionally straining. 
When the labor pains come on and the water sacs pass, 
the lamb should come soon, at the most, in not more 
than six hours ; if not, there is something wrong, and 
unless you know how to help her, assistance of an ex- 
perienced shepherd or of a veterinary should be secured 
at once. Do not wait, for time means a lamb, and, 
perhaps, a ewe. 

But if everything is well and the lamb is presented 
all right, it is best to help the ewe, especially if she is 
young 2nd it is her first lamb ; pull on the feet 
and push the head forward; you can help her much, 
and avoid any danger of injury to the lamb. As soon as 
the lamb comes, take care that the little thin skin which 
covers his face and nose is removed, and that he begins 
to breathe ; if he does not breathe, hold his mouth open 
and blow into it, also rub him on the sides with your 
hands ; the lungs soon act. In breaking the naval 
chord, be careful to break the chords by drawing toward 
the lamb and away from the ewe. Do not cut, but tear 
apart, by drawing between thumb and forefinger. 

Everything well so far, the next thing is to see that 
the milk is started, so the lamb can get his feed. Do this 
with moistened thumb and forefinger, and put the lamb 
where he can take hold of the teat; if he is lively and 
hungry, there is no more trouble. But sometimes a lamb 
is a little dumpish or slow to take hold, or it might be 
that he has gone without feed too long, due to some 
mishap, and he does not suck. In such cases it becomes 

Page Thirty-six 



LAMBING 



necessary to hold the lamb with the teat in his mouth, 
and if he does not draw the milk himself, to draw it with 
thumb and finger, from the teat, into his mouth; 
when he gets a taste of the milk, he will do his own 
milking. In these cases the lamb should be put with the 
ewe in one of the small pens provided, and care taken 
that the lamb is suckled every two or three hours, until 
he helps himself. In all cases it is better to take the 
ewe, with her lamb, from the flock of unlambed ewes, 
and put with those that have their lambs. Thus the 
latter can be given more feed and better care, while the 
little lambs will not annoy the ewes about to lamb. 

Any ewe which refuses to own her lamb, a ewe 
with twins, or a ewe which has lost her lamb, and which 
you want to make raise a lamb, should be put in one of 
these small pens. If a ewe loses her lamb, she will adopt 
some ill-fed twin in a few days, if thus put by herself 
with him ; for every ewe should raise a lamb, either her 
own, or some other ewe's. Occasionally it becomes 
necessary to feed a lamb cow's milk, in order to save him. 
This should not be done until he is two or three days 
old, even if you have to steal a little ewe's milk away 
from some other lamb. Care must be taken not to 
overfeed him on cow's milk. Give him a little at a time, 
but often. This can be done with a bottle and a rubber 
nipple. The milk must be the right temperature, 
neither too hot, nor too cold. It must be fresh milk, just 
as it comes from the cow. No dilution is necessary, for 
ewe's milk is even richer. The bottle must be kept 
sweet and clean. The lamb must not go too long with- 
out feed, and he must have his milk regularly. The first 
two or three weeks is the important time when he 
requires close attention, and after that he is not so 

Page Thirty-seven 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



particular. Then the young boy or girl can take an 
interest in the flock by feeding the pet. 

With the ewes just lambed, care must be taken that 
the lambs are sucking both sides of the udder, and taking 
all that the ewe gives. Often, for the first two or three 
days, a ewe will give more milk than the lamb needs, and 
then it is important that the ewe be milked out ; this is 
best done by letting some older lamb, either a twin or 
some lamb whose mother is not feeding him well, do 
this. Milking with the hand should only be resorted to 
when there is no other way, for it is a waste of the 
choicest lambs' feed, and it tends to dry up the ewe. 
Care must be taken to see that the ewe's udder is clean, 
and that her teats do not become sore, for then she will 
refuse to let her lamb suck. Very close attention must, 
at all times, be given to this matter of the lambs sucking 
both sides, and the ewes owning their lambs. It means 
the growth of the lamb and the health of the ewe. 

Immediately following lambing, the ewe should not 
be fed too heavily, especially if she be in a small pen ; gen- 
erally, in a flock, she is so anxious about her lamb for 
the first three or four feeds of grain, that she will not eat 
too much ; she will spend half her time running between 
the grain trough and her lamb. You should notice if 
her bowels are moving regularly ; and if she is costive or 
feverish, give her two tablespoonfuls of castor oil, or an 
equal amount of Epsom salts. Sometimes the newborn 
lamb takes his nourishment well for the first day, and 
then refuses. In such cases, note if his bowels are in 
working order ; if they have not moved, give a rectal in- 
jection of lukewarm soapsuds, made of pure soap and rain 
water; use a small syringe. This is generally sufficient, 
but in severe cases, a teaspoonful of castor oil may be 
given internally. 



Page Thirty- eight 



LAMBING 



Sometimes a ewe will develop a caked udder, gen- 
erally in one side only, but often in both ; it may 
come anytime while the ewe is suckling, more often 
appearing in ewes that are heavy milkers, and when the 
lamb is from three weeks to two months old. The part 
affected becomes swollen and hard, which causes a stiff- 
ness in the entire hind parts. Instead of milk, there is a 
thin, watery fluid, sometimes gargety, which the lamb 
refuses to take. Rub the udder well with the hand and 
force out as much of this fluid as possible. In rubbing, 
which is the main treatment, it is essential that the hand 
be kept moistened while you are rubbing ; also when 
through rubbing, apply some camphorated sweet oil. 
Such rubbing should be done for twenty to thirty min- 
utes two or three times a day until the soreness has dis- 
appeared. The main purpose is to soften the udder 
and to keep it milked out. This trouble is generally 
attended by constipation, and as soon as noticed, a large 
dose of castor oil, three to four tablespoonfuls, or Epsom 
salts, should be given. Generally the ewe loses further 
use of the affected side; in some cases, it causes death. 
In any event it means the market for her in the fall. 



The Lambs 



Three factors are necessary to a place to best raise 
young lambs, viz., it should be dry warm, and light. 
Good ventilation is necessary in order to avoid dampness 
as well as draughts, both of which are death to young 
lambs, as well as to old sheep. Many times in trying to 
keep a shed warm, it is kept closed so tightly, that a vapor 

Page Thirty-nine 




is created from the breaths of the sheep, with a resultant 
dampness and moisture, which is very disagreeable and 
even dangerous. The air must be kept pure and 
dry. A great aid to this is sunlight. To procure 
this, it is essential that the sheep shed be so located, that 
the broadside of it is toward the south, and built with 
plenty windows and glass in the doors, if the latter must 
be closed. Next to the mother's milk, there is no one 



Page Forty 



THE LAMB 



thing that does a little lamb more good, nor which he 
enjoys more, than an abundance of sunlight. Did you 
ever see a bunch of young lambs gathered together, 
lying in the sun, sleeping and enjoying those warm rays 
to the full, when, perhaps, outside the wind may be 
blowing and the thermometer hovering around the zero 
mark ? If not you have missed one of the finest 
pictures Nature has ever painted for man's instruction 
and pleasure. When the lamb is sleeping in that sun- 
light he is growing, and this means profit to the farmer. 

Like all other young animals a lamb must be kept 
growing, and he must learn to assimilate foods other 
than his mother's milk. The earlier in life he does this, 
the better. To help him, fix a creep. What's that ? 
A small pen, where he can crawl away from the ewes 
and find grain and the choicest, tenderest hay for him- 
self, and a drink of fresh, clean water, and a nibble of 
Sal-Vet." Have this pen adjoining, or within the 
sheep pen proper, and make the openings into it just 
large enough for the little lamb to crawl through, with- 
out the ewe being able to get in. The pen need only 
be large enough so that a number of the little fellows 
can get into it at once. Here have a trough, in which 
you keep a mixture of bran with a little oats and just a 
sprinkle of oil meal ; also a rack in which you keep a 
little choice clover hay. Keep this feed and water clean 
and fresh all the time, and so the lambs can get it. Do 
not worry about the lambs going in there ; they will find 
it and learn to eat, without any further help. 

When the lambs are about ten days to three weeks 
old, two operations become necessary in order to make 
them the most profitable, viz.: docking and castrating. 
To do this, they are best put in a small pen before start- 



Page Forty- one 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



ing, and as soon as done with one, put him in the pen 
with the ewes, thus not disturbing the lambs after 
operated upon, this is quite important, as the less 
they move, the less liable they are to bleed. The best 
time to do this, is at evening after feeding, and just before 
dark, as the flock will then be quiet for several hours. 
The only tool necessary is a sharp pocket knife, which 
must be properly disinfected with carbolic acid or any 
good disinfectant ; this latter is very important. 

Where both operations are necessary, the castration 
is done first. See that both testicles are down, cut off 
the end of the scrotum or sac, and pull out the testicles 
with the thumb and forefinger, or, as many prefer, with 
the teeth, until the cord breaks; do not cut the cord. 
A little disinfectant, such as Zenoleum well diluted, acts as 
a healer and disinfectant. To dock, simply cut the tail 
off with the sharp knife. Care should be taken to hit 
one of the small joints in the tail, which can be easily 
located by the operator with the thumb of his left hand ; 
for, hitting the joint, it does not shock the lamb nearly 
as much, nor is he so apt to bleed. In case of over- 
bleeding, from which there is occasional danger of death, 
the best preventive is searing with a hot iron. Cording 
and the use of cobwebs, is also effective. Some even 
advocate the use of hot pincers for docking, but we have 
always found the sharp knife the handiest and most 
effective, with very little danger. 



Page Forty-two 



SHEARING 




Shear them before they go to grass. 



Sh 



earing 



Shearing time depends somewhat upon the time 
when the lambs come; if the lambs come early, shearing 
follows lambing, if later, the shearing often comes first. 
In the northern states, shearing generally comes the latter 
part of March and during April, depending upon the 
weather and the local conditions, as to shearers and 
sheep. Shearing too early is not advisable, because there 
is not as much oil, and consequently, not as much 
weight in the fleece. Unless you have a very warm 
place for them, cold weather will necessitate more 
feed, and the ewes will not furnish as much milk. 
Shearing before lambing, requires careful handling of the 
ewes by the shearers, or there is danger of turning the 
lamb inside the ewe, thus causing trouble. Shorn ewes, 
however, are much easier to handle after they lamb, and 



Page Forty- three 



SAL-VET SHEEIP BOOK 



generally it is easier for the lamb to help himself, as there is 
no wool nor tags to bother him. No set rule can be given; 
a man must determine this for himself. Only one thing 
is sure, they should be shorn before they go to grass. 

General custom is to hire local shearers, who make 
that their business at that time of the year; many 
farmers are learning to do their own shearing. Some 
use machines, but the great majority use blades. Many 
men have an idea they can learn to shear sheep with a 
machine, when they could not with a pair of shears; this 
is wrong, for the knack is not so much in holding the 
shears or the machine, but in holding the sheep so as to 
run the shears or machine to advantage. There is not 
room here to explain fully about shearing; it must 
suffice to say, that sheep must always be held in a com- 
fortable position, and the hide kept smooth and tight. 
Pull the hide and not the fleece, and then the shears or 
clippers will run smoothly and close to the hide. 

Having shorn the fleece, the main thing is to tie 
it up properly. This is best done by the aid of a common 
folding wool-box, such as every farmer has or knows 
about. Thread with the proper twine, which is the 
common wool twine, lay the fleece upon this, shorn side 
down, smooth and arrange so that the shorn ends will 
all appear on the outside of the fleece, put in all the 
trimmings and dry tags, fold the box, and tie the fleece. 
If you do a good job of tying, no black ends will appear. 
With the use of the box, all fleeces will appear uniform 
and will be packed a little so that the ends do not show, 
all of which adds to the attractiveness and salability of 
your clip, when the buyer comes. Never use sisal nor 
manila binding twine; if you do, it will cost you two to 
four cents a pound on your clip. Better not tie at all 

Page Forty-four 



SHEARING 




Sheep shearing by machinery, 

than use it. Some are using a new paper twine; others 
a small hard cord. These are both good. The main 
thing, is to have a twine not too heavy, and especially one 
free from any loose fibers which may attach to the wool, 
and so cause trouble for the manufacturer when he 
makes the fleece into cloth; such fibers can not be 
separated from the wool, and they cause a flaw in the 
goods. 

Care should be taken that each fleece is tied sep- 
arately, and with no more twine than necessary. Two 
or more fleeces or parts of fleeces, should not be tied to- 
gether. Do not put wet tags, sweat locks, dead wool, 
dirt, nor foreign matter of any description, inside the 
fleece. You are selling wool, not real estate nor fertilizer, 



Page Forty- five 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



and just because the buyer can not see everything, do 
not think he will not know about any filling of fleeces 
with other than wool; those fleeces must be opened, and 
the men who open it, will know whence it comes. The 
reason Australian wools open up in such good condi- 
tion and are so satisfactory to the manufacturer, is that 
the growers use great care in doing up their wools and 
try to maintain a reputation for the good condition of 
their clips. The carelessness of American farmers in this 
respect, has cost them much. 

Properly tied, the wool should be put in some place 
where rats and mice, dirt and dust can not reach; neatly 
piled and covered with canvas, it is ready to show to 
the buyer, when he comes. Piling it in as it comes from 
the flock, any variation of the fleeces will show 
so that it is not necessary to pull the pile to pieces, 
in order to show the wool. Here is where the value 
of a uniform flock shows in dollars. The time to sell 
wool is when it is ready for market, and that is when 
it is shorn. Too many make the mistake of holding 
wool for a higher price, because it appears easy to hold, 
eating nothing, and taking but little room; they forget 
there is a shrinkage and a risk involved in carrying, aside 
from the interest on the money invested, which makes 
a profit from holding of very doubtful value. The local 
buyer generally furnishes the best market, as he has 
enough competition as an incentive to pay you its value. 

After shearing and before going to grass, both ewes 
and lambs should be marked. The best way to do this 
is with a small metallic ear label, which should have the 
owner's name or initials on one side, and a series of num- 
bers on the other; in this way the farmer can keep a 

Page Forty-six 



SHEARING 



record of his lambs and of their breeding, each year. 
Such labeling lasts during the life of the sheep, as 
very few of them become lost. In addition to this, many 
use a paint mark on the wool, which can be readily dis- 
tinguished at a distance. This should be made of lin- 
seed oil and lamp black or Venetian red, with a little 
flour, to give body to the paint. It can be put on any 
part of the body, with a wooden marker, preferably the 
rump or back. Tar should never be used for marking. 

Ticks should be the only condition necessitating the 
dipping of sheep, unless scab has broken out through 
accident by shipping the sheep from other sections. 
Dipping should be done in the spring, soon after shear- 
ing; a good warm, sunny day is the best. Use a small dipping 
vat, such as any of the larger tank factories make; a 
small draining pen, made with a tight bottom so that 
the dripping from the sheep when they first come out, 
can run back into the vat, some good coal-tar dip, water, 
and plenty help to handle the sheep; these will make 
a short job of dipping, and effectively rid your sheep of 
all ticks, at a very small cost. By doing this soon after 
shearing, it will take much less dip, the sheep are easier 
to handle, and you do a better job of killing the ticks. 
With a coal-tar dip, there is no danger of poisoning nor 
injuring the sheep. 

If for any reason there are many ticks on your sheep 
in the fall, dip them before very cold weather comes. 
Ticks live on the sheep's blood, and if sheep's feed must 
support numbers of these pests, it is not producing wool 
and mutton, and so is lost to the farmer. We have seen 
sheep absolutely poor, because so infested with ticks. 
There is no excuse for such negligence. Dipping is 
cheap and effective. 

Page Forty-seven 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



Going to Grass. 

Shearing done and lambing well through, the farmer 
anxiously awaits the day in spring when he can turn his 
flock of ewes and little lambs out to grass, for green 
grass is the greatest feed known to produce milk and to 
grow young animals, and especially lambs. Calculation 
should be made to have a field of green pasture for the 
little lambs, just as early as it is possible A field of fall- 
sown rye, furnishes very early feed, as also does a good 
clover meadow or a fresh blue grass pasture. Care should 
be taken that the pastures are comparatively new seed- 
ings, or have not had sheep on them before; for old pas- 
tures are the great breeding place for stomach worms, 
and they are the bane of the farmer, who raises lambs. 

Get the lambs out to grass just as early as possible, 
but do not expect them and their mothers to get all their 
living from the grass. At first it must be considered as a 
relish, and not the main feed, as it becomes a little 
later. When they first go to grass, it is just as im- 
portant for them to have their hay and grain, as it was 
before. One of the greatest mistakes made by the aver- 
age farmer in handling his flock of sheep, is this turn- 
ing from dry feed to grass in a single day, and then 
wondering why his sheep get thin and his lambs do not 
thrive and grow. It is a great change, and should not 
be made suddenly, as it throws the digestive organs 
out of order. Rather should it be made gradually, in 
two to three weeks, instead of a single day. At first 
turning them out two or three hours in the afternoon, 
then all the afternoon, then in the middle of the fore- 
noon for the balance of the day, and so on, all the time 
gradually reducing the hav ration, and after it the grain, 

Page Forty-eight 



GOING TO GRASS 



until at the end of a month, and sometimes less, de- 
pending upon the weather and the growth of the grass, 
the flock is entirely on grass. 

As the grass grows and takes on more substance, so 
that there is strength in it, and you reduce the hay feed- 
ing, you will note that you reduce the hay feed in the 
morning, and that even after they seem to be nearly on 
grass, they will eat a good feed of hay at night. Like- 
wise with the grain, the reduction comes first in the 
morning feed, and when but one feed a day is necessary, 
it should be given at evening. And while the ewes are 
coming to the barn at night to get their feed, the little 
lambs can crawl into their creep, and get their grain and 
Sal-Vet; care should be taken to keep their trough and 
salt box full. 

It is very important that the ewes and lambs should 
be sheltered from any long, cold rains, such as often occur 
at this time of the year, in this northern climate. Warm 
showers of short duration do not hurt them, but one of 
those cold rains, that last a day or two, do more damage 
and take off more flesh, than good feed can put on in 
two weeks. See that the sheep are in the barn at such 
times. 

Before going to grass, the ewes should have their 
feet trimmed if they need it, and most sheep do; for after 
a winter on warm manure, or at least where there is no 
chance to wear off the hard hoof, they have become 
long and generally turned over, so that often the sheep 
become lame, and, if not properly tended, will permanent- 
ly cripple the feet by turning them out of place. Take a 
good pair of hoof shears, such as you can buy at any 
good hardware store, and trim the feet, by cutting off 
this overgrowth, and putting the feet into their natural 

Pcge Forty-nine 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



shape, as they should be, to enable the sheep to walk natur- 
ally and comfortably. Do not cut the toe squarely, but on 
a slant, so that both toe and heel will press the ground 
when the sheep walks. Also be careful not to cut the 
toe vein, which is done by cutting too short. 

Also, often in the spring when there is much rain 
and the yards become muddy, in spite of all that one 
can do the sheep will get lame, due to mud and manure 
sticking between the hoofs, which together with the 
warm weather, scald the feet. We have seen a whole 
flock come down this way inside of 48 hours. Some- 
times, if the weather turns dry or cold, or both, they 
will heal themselves without any further attention. 
But the better way is to treat them at once, and thus 
prevent any danger of more serious trouble. Hoof 
shears and a good sharp knife, are the essential tools. 
Clean the feet well, and pare off all hoof over any in- 
fected or sore part, and put on the sore part and down 
between the claws, blue vitriol, either in powdered 
form, or dissolved in vinegar. The main thing is to clean 
and pare well; do not be afraid to expose all sore parts 
as long as there is any sore part covered with hoof, it will 
not heal and dry up. It is also best to put some of the 
vitriol in every foot, whether sore or not, and thus pre- 
vent any infection. If a stronger remedy is desired, the 
vitriol can be mixed with butyr of antimony to form a 
thick paste, but this is necessary only in bad cases. 

Page Fifty 



SPRINGTIME AND PASTURE 



Springtime and Pasture. 

Spring is the busy and important time for the farm- 
er, and among other things which he must do, is to make 
provision for feed in the latter part of the summer, when 
grass gets short and dry, and to provide his succulent 
feed for the next winter. For the former we have found 
rape the best feed. This should be sown as early in the 
spring as possible. The ground should be well fitted, 
and the seed can be sown broadcast and covered 
with a weeder or harrow, or it can be sown in rows with 
a garden drill, 28 to 36 inches apart. While the latter 
requires a little more work we have found it more satis- 
factory, as the rape can then be cultivated and the weeds 
kept out of it; the sheep can walk between the rows and 
not tramp it down, and it grows enough better, to pay 
for the extra expense. 

You can turn the sheep or lambs on to this when 
it gets about 20 to 24 inches high; let them pick it down, 
and it will soon grow up ready for them again. It is 
best sown next to a good grass pasture, so that the sheep 
can have access to both rape and grass. This will furn- 
ish much green feed in the late summer when pastures 
are often short. For a late fall feed, rape sown in the 
corn just behind the cultivator the last time through the 
corn, furnishes much good feed. Dwarf Essex is the best 
variety, and three to five pounds per acre, is plenty seed. 

For the late winter and early spring feed, the 
beets should be sown about cornplanting time. A small 
patch, a half acre or a little more on one side of the corn 
field, should be well prepared, and the beets drilled with 
a garden drill, in rows three feet apart, so that they can 
be easily worked with a cultivator. Thinned and hoed 

Page Fifty- one 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



when two or three inches high, and properly tended with 
a cultivator, they will produce a large amount of feed, 
with a reasonable amount of labor, on a small piece of 
ground. Sugar mangels, or stock feeding sugar beets, 
are the best for the purpose. Turnips or rutabagas 
sown in the corn at the time of the last cultivating, will 
produce much succulent feed for the early part of the 
winter, at a minimum expense. 

There are some considerations as to pasture, which 
are essential to the growth of the lambs and the main- 
tenance of the ewes in good condition. Upland pastures 
are best, in fact, almost necessary. Often we have seen 
farmers put the sheep on a low, marshy pasture and then 
wonder why they did not do well. Sheep want high, 
dry land, and they do best on the rich, sweet, tender 
grasses that grow on such land. Turn a flock of sheep 
into a field where there is a hill, and you will see they go 
upon the hill every time, other conditions being equal. 
They do not like wet feet, nor do they like the coarse, rank 
grasses that grow in low, wet places. Wood-lot pastures 
are seldom good for sheep, altho they will trim up any 
brush that may appear; but the grass is not so good as 
that which grows in the sunlight. 

Clover, both red and alsyke, furnish the best pasture for 
sheep, but owing to the difficulty of maintaining these, 
timothy and bluegrass are also necessary; in seeding, the 
latter can be sown with the clovers, and will come in just 
right when the clovers are gone. Pastures should not 
be allowed to become too old; new seedings are better, as 
there is not the danger from the worms. Grass should 
not be allowed to become too high for good sheep pas- 
ture; they like the short, tender shoots. This does not 
mean that a field should be picked bare by other stock 

Page Fifty- two 



SPRINGTIME AND PASTURE 




Good shade is an essential part of good sheep pasture. 

and then the sheep turned in, thinking they will do well, 
where there is nothing. But they do not like tall, 
coarse grasses, like timothy that is full grown. Change 
of pasture is necessary, even if only between two fields 
which may be very similar. Sheep like a change, just as 
a man does; also a variety; thus the need of several 
grasses, in the same field. The ewes and lambs should 
be furnished the pasture best suited to them; for only by 
giving them the best feed, can they earn you the most 
profits. 

Good shade is an essential part of a good sheep pas- 
ture. Large trees are the best for this purpose, and 
where there are none of these natural shades, the good 



Page Fifty- three 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



shepherd will furnish a covering under which the sheep 
can find shelter, from the hot sun, during the heat of the 
day. Their better growth will more than pay for such 
shelter. If you have ever noticed a flock of lambs, fight- 
ing flies and the heat, in the shade of a wire fence, and 
on the next farm saw another flock resting and chewing 
their cuds under a spreading oak tree, you may have 
been able to tell why the one flock grew better and 
made more money for their owner. You may be so 
situated that it is necessary for the flock to come to the 
barn for water, and then they can stay there during the 
heat of the day. But we prefer the shade tree out in 
the open field. 

Water is as essential as grass and shade. The ideal 
water is a small brook of running water, or a spring. 
Failing this, any source which supplies clean, fresh water 
answers this purpose. The important thing is that the 
sheep have it some time during the day. And that does 
not mean from some muddy, stagnant pool. 



Wo 



rms. 



When once the ewes and lambs are entirely on pas- 
ture, the close attention in the barn is not required, 
but they will not look after themselves at all times. 
While they can secure their own feed without help, yet 
the flock should be seen at least once a day, to guard 
against accidents and unforeseen contingencies. Some- 
times an accident befalls a ewe, such as becoming 
fast in a depression, of a dead-furrow; or, a little lamb 
gets into trouble with the fence or something else; these 

Page Fifty-four 



WORMS 



and many more, which have happened to us in our ex- 
perience, and have cost us dearly, remind us that it pays 
to look after the sheep once a day. 

It is also during the spring and summer when sheep 
are on pasture, that the great enemy of the sheep on the 
average American farm, gets in his deadly work. This 
probably has caused more loss to sheep farmers, than any 
other one thing. That enemy is worms; worms inside 
the sheep and outside also, altho they are not at all simi- 
lar. The outside worm, which is called maggot, comes 
only occasionally, is easily discerned, and is destroyed 
without injurious effect upon the sheep. But the inside 
worm, the deadly stomach worm, is the one which does 
the damage. How, when, and whence he comes, are 
not always known to the most expert shepherds, but 
heroic measures are generally necessary, to drive him from 
a sheep's stomach, when once installed. 

In damp, rainy, muggy weather, such as we often 
have in the spring and' summer, one must watch for 
maggots. It seems as if there were certain times when 
those obnoxious green flies, which deposit the blows 
from which come the maggots, are busier than at any 
other time; and they keep a good shepherd busy with 
the shears and a can of good coal-tar dip. These flies 
are busiest about the hind parts of the ewe or lamb, 
especially if there should be some dirty wet wool, but we 
have seen them work under the eyes, on the belly, and 
even right on the side of the sheep, where there seemed 
to be no apparent cause for it. At such times they 
work with incredible rapidity, for we have known sheep 
to be killed with them, in two or three days. You can 
easily discern them when they are present, for the sheep 
will bite the part where they are, and the wool will appear 
wet and dirty. Shear off all the wool where they are, 

Page Fifty-five 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



pour on some coal-tar dip, diluted about one part to 
twenty-five parts water, and in ordinary cases there will 
be no more trouble. If the maggots should have eaten 
into the flesh so that it is raw and sore, it is best to put 
on some clean pine tar, which will heal the wound, and 
at the same time, keep the flies away. Such sheep 
should be closely watched for two or three days, until the 
affected part is thoroughly healed or dried. 

In summer, when a farmer is busiest with his farm 
work, the deadly stomach worm likewise gets busy in 
his lamb flock. Unless he is watchful, his first knowledge 
of their presence, will be a dead lamb, and unless there 
is some other evident cause, he may be pretty safe in at- 
tributing the cause of death to worms. If he wants 
to be sure, let him open the lamb in the fourth stomach, 
and there he will find a mass of reddish like worms, 
about three-quarters inch long and the size of a hair. 
These are stomach worms; and if this lamb has them, he 
may be sure that every other lamb in that flock has them 
to a greater or less degree, and it is his turn to get busy. 

Our method in such case is to take the flock to the 
barn at night, keep them there over night, away from 
all feed and drink, from twelve to eighteen hours, and 
give each lamb a dose of one tablespoonful of gasoline in 
one-third teacupful milk, fresh from the cow, mixing 
each dose separately, and giving it by means of a long- 
necked bottle. Give this treatment three successive 
mornings. Then keep a medicated salt, like Sal-Vet by 
them all the time, and no other salt. Even with this 
treatment some may be so badly infected, that nothing 
can save them, but they are worth the trial. Preven- 
tion, however, is always cheaper and better, than a cure 
and we have found a preventive in Sal- Vet, when prop- 



Page Fifty-six 



WORMS 



er conditions of pasture are maintained and it is kept 
constantly before the flock, so they can eat all they want, 
and have no other salt. We have found this economical 
to use, under all conditions. 

To the watchful farmer, the first indication of worms 
will be some of the younger lambs lagging behind when 
the flock moves; on examination it will be found to have 
pale, bloodless skin, the eye will be dull and listless, and 
very pale; the lamb will be thin and weak, perhaps scour- 
ing, and in some, the lips and under the jaw will swell 
and fill with a watery fluid, which appears just before 
death. Any time the lambs do not appear fat and thriv- 
ing, when they have apparently good feed, you may be 
quite sure that worms are there. The younger lambs 
are generally first affected, as they are least able to with- 
stand the ravages of worms. 

We have also known many cases in which the 
worms did not prove fatal until the following winter and 
spring. Taking in these worms in the summer, the 
lambs may have been strong and offered such resistance 
to the worms, as to have shown little or no effects of 
them, and while starting into winter in rather thin flesh, 
the unsuspecting farmer attributes their lack of condi- 
tion to short feed or perhaps his own negligence and 
thinks by good feeding, to gain what they should have had 
in the fall. Instead, however, the lambs remain thin, often 
concealing their real condition from the average man, by 
their long fleece, until some day, one is found dead; 
then the farmer wonders what was the cause. Nine times 
out of ten it is the same old trouble, stomach worms. 
Likewise, we have known flocks in which the pests had 
appeared in the lambs during the summer, apparently 
been driven out by thorough treatment, further preven- 
tive measures neglected, and the next spring some of 



Page Fifty-seven 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



those same lambs would grow thin and die, even after 
going to grass. 

Extensive experiments, observations, and experience 
have demonstrated some things about stomach worms. 
Briefly they are this: that they are carried and develop 
in mature sheep, pass from them in their droppings, in 
which the larvae are deposited; in warm, wet weather 
these hatch and live in the droppings, until the young 
worms attain enough life and strength to move; then 
they crawl up and fasten themselves to the blades of 
grass, and with them, are taken into the lamb's stomach. 
Old pastures, especially blue grass and timothy, are thus 
most liable to be infected, and lambs should be kept off 
them. New seedings of grass and fresh crops like rape, 
are not infected. It also requires warm weather and 
considerable moisture to enable the worm to hatch in 
the dropping and live on the grass. Thus we see that a 
hot summer with abundant rain, or a low, moist field 
where the grass grows freely, is conducive to worms. 

It is claimed that ten days is the minimum time in 
which a worm can pass from one sheep and be reproduced 
in another, but of course, under conditions unfavorable 
to them, more time is required. A young lamb is born 
uninfected, and the only way for him to become 
infected, is by taking the worm from the grass, into 
his system. Some therefore advocate a complete 
change of pasture every ten days or two weeks, 
to keep the lamb from becoming infected. Such 
method does not seem practical for the average farmer, 
as he has not sufficient pasture to do this. Others ad- 
vocate keeping the lamb in the barn and the feeding of 
soiling crops, such as rape, green corn, and grass on 
which no sheep have pastured; but this is too expensive 
in this land of high-priced labor. 



Page Fifty- eight 



WORMS 



Eternal vigilance on the part of the shepherd, is the 
price of the healthy lambs. Not for one instant may he 
relax his guard in this great struggle with his arch enemy. 
In search of the most efficient weapon to keep off this pest, 
we have tried many things. Some do one thing, some 
another, but there are so many varying conditions and 
various symptoms and results, and with all must enter in 
the factors of practicability and economy, that we have 
found most of them wanting. All factors considered, 
we have found Sal-Vet the most satisfactory preventive, 
but with it some things are necessary. It must be kept 
before the sheep and lambs, where they can have easy 
and constant access to it all the time, and should not be 
mixed with other salt. In case of apparent and severe 
infection, it should be given in good sized doses, by force; 
for in such cases the lamb will not eat enough of his 
own volition, to produce the desired results. Keep the 
lambs off the old pastures, put them on new seedings 
and rape, give them good grain feed and Sal-Vet, and 
much of the worm troubles of the lambs, will be pre- 
vented. 



Summer Care. 



Besides watching the worm pests, it is necessary to 
furnish the flock proper and plenty pasture, with its 
necessary attendants of water, shade and salt. For the 
latter, a box one by two feet, four to six inches deep, 
twelve to sixteen inches from the ground, with a proper 
cover to protect from rain and sun, should be furnished, 
and in this should always be kept an ample supply of 

Page Fifty-nine 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



:■ .,. .. <A^^M>„ j»: .&. <dW 


k , 




:g?W| 






■■■.■ . . .'.'.'■'" '. .Vv' , ■ ' 




S---" : ."''■■ 



Southdown lambs on an English estate 

'Sal-Vet.' This box should never be empty, and the 
lambs should always have access to it. 

If it is intended to sell the lambs at weaning time, 
they should be fed grain in the field every day, by means 
of a creep built in the field. A few good panels, wired 
to posts, will easily make such pen, while openings just 
large enough for the lambs, can be made so they can get 
to the grain. They should be fed all the oats they will 
eat, so that at weaning time, they should be fat and 
ready for market. 

Weaning time should come when the lamb is four 
to five months old, depending somewhat upon condi- 
tions of weather and feed. If going to market, the lamb 
ought to go there direct from the ewe to prevent 
any unnecessary shrinkage attendant upon weaning. 



Page Sixty 



SUMMER CARE 



If not, the lambs should be taken from the ewes and 
put on the freshest and best pasture possible; this is gen- 
erally a new-mown clover meadow, where the grass is 
short and tender. The rape patch should also be ready 
by this time; here they can go in the afternoon, after 
the dew is off the rape and they have filled themselves 
in the morning with grass, until they have become used 
to going into the rape. Otherwise there is much 
danger of bloating and loss. As soon as they are accus- 
tomed to the rape, in a week or ten days, they can be 
let to run in it at will, provided there is plenty grass, to 
which they can go when they wish. 

In case of bloating, a mild case can be relieved by 
putting pine tar in the mouth and on the nose; or better, a 
heaping teaspoonful of common baking soda, dissolved in 
a little warm water, given as soon as seen, and another 
dose in a few minutes, if relief is not apparent. Another 
good way is to tie a stick in the mouth, bit-fashion. 
Exercise is also necessary; keep the animal moving, so 
that the gas will move and escape. If none of these 
afford relief, it is necessary to tap the animal on the left 
side on the paunch at a point equidistant from the back- 
bone and the end of the last rib. This can be done 
with a small, sharp knife, or better with a small trocar. 
We have seldom found this latter necessary. 

After weaning, we have found that the lambs need 
a daily feed of oats, even if not very heavy. A little 
grain thus keeps them growing and in good condition, 
aids in retaining that lamb fat, and helps to take the 
place of the ewe's milk; they will gain more than enough 
to pay the cost. From now on they need good sensible 
care, feeding them such feeds and in such quantities as 
is necessary to put them in the best condition for the 
purpose for which you want them, whether it be to 

Page Sixty-one 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



market them at Christmas time, or later in the winter, 
or in the spring after shearing, or to retain in the breed- 
ing flock. Well bred sheep, given plenty feed and good 
care, will bring substantial profits to their owner. 

As for the ewes, they should be watched for a few 
days after weaning, and about the second morning, any 
which show large, full udders, should be caught and 
milked by hand; doing this once or twice, generally finds 
them dried up. For a time now they can run on rather 
short feed and do well. Stubble fields furnish good feed, 
and the ewes will do a good job of weed cleaning. 
At this time they will require probably less attention 
than at any other time of the year. 

The one thing that is necessary, is that they have 
such feed as will put them in good condition for the 
breeding season; a thin ewe is liable not to settle in 
lamb, and in any case it is much more difficult and more 
expensive to fleshen a ewe properly after she is bred, 
than before. Also by good condition, we mean what 
many farmers call fat; no ewe will become too fat for 
breeding on good pasture. Heavy grain feeding is the 
only dangerous fattener, but few farmers think of that 
when the ewes are on grass. But if the ewes should be 
thin after weaning, and they are to be bred soon, some 
grain may be necessary to put them in proper condition. 

This is the proper time to cull out any that are not 
wanted in the breeding flock for another year. Ewes 
that have proven barren, that have lost one or both sides 
of their udder, those that have broken mouths, or for 
any other reason you wish to dispose of them, this is the 
time to cull them out and sell. Or if you are feeding a 
bunch for market sometime during the winter, you can 
put them with those, and fat them before selling, and 
thus get more from them. None but good breeders that 

Page Sixty- two 



SUMMER CARE 



raise their lambs well should be retained; old ewes 
should likewise go, unless they are very good breeders. 
Only by thus culling, and putting in their places good 
young ewes, can improvement be made. 

In determining the age of a sheep, if you have no 
record, the only way is by the teeth. A lamb has all 
small or milk teeth, and at the age of fifteen to eighteen 
months, the two middle teeth will drop out and two 
larger, wider teeth take their places; at about 21 to 24 
months, two more large teeth will appear, one on each 
side of those already in; at about 30 to 33 months, two 
more appear in the same manner, and about 3}4 years 
the last ones show; then we say that the sheep is full- 
mouthed. 

Two large teeth indicate a yearling, four a 
two-year old, six a three-year old. After they are full- 
mouthed there is no way of determining exactly. When 
the teeth begin to wear off and to spread apart, it is gen- 
erally time for the ewe to be traveling to market. 



The Shepherd and His Flock 

For thousands of years, back to the days of ancient 
mythology, the sheep has ever held prominent place. 
The first man's son was a shepherd, while "from the 
firstlings of his flock" came the first sacrificial offer- 
ing, acceptable to the Creator. The ancient legends 
of the Greeks tell us of the famed ram and his 
Golden Fleece, and their poets sang of the beauties 
of the pastoral life, as well as the dignities of the 
spinning of wool in their households. The scholarly 
historians of Rome at the zenith of her power, tell us of 
the sheep in Asia and southern Europe, while the first 

Page Sixty- three 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



work of her rulers who invaded Britain, was to set up 
mills to spin and weave the fleece of the sheep. 

No possession of the kings and nobles of Spain, dur- 
ing the longyearsof her supremacy on both land and sea, was 
more highly prized, more zealously guarded, nor more 
eagerly sought, bv the strong rulers of Britain and conti- 
nental Europe, than were her famous cabanas of Merino 
sheep. Columbus brought sheep to the New World; so 
did many other of the early explorers, while all the early 
colonists brought small flocks with them from their na- 
tive lands. Of no possession on their broad Virginia es- 
tates, were George Washington and Thomas Jefferson 
more proud than of their sheep, while no work of the 
early envoys of America to foreign lands, produced greater 
results, than that in connection with the importation of 
Merino sheep. And today rulers and men high in the 
councils of the state, in every part of the world, point 
with pride to their flocks. 

From time immemorial, in every clime, sheep hus- 
bandry has been the favored occupation of men 
in every station of life, producing the two essen- 
tial necessities of civilized mankind, food and cloth- 
ing. No meat finds its way to any man's table, which is 
so clean and so healthful, so juicy and so savory, as the 
mutton chop and the leg of lamb. No product has yet 
been found which is at once so universal, so useful, and 
so ornamental, as wool. Produced in every country, hot 
or cold, barren or fertile, in Australia and in Siberia, in 
Africa and in Argentine, it travels the commercial high- 
ways of land and sea, to the trade and manufacturing 
centers of the world, is there transformed into clothes 
which protect the laborer from the elements, as well as 
into fabrics which adorn the fashionable lady, and thus 
ultimately, finds its way to those for whom it is intended. 

Page Sixty-four 



THE SHEPHERD AND HIS FLOCK 



In this long process of transferring wool from the 
back of the sheep, to that of man, is involved the labor 
and skill and capital of many men. But whoever comes 
in contact with wool in its globe-encircling journey, finds 
himself dealing and associating with the ablest, shrewd- 
est, and most intelligent men in the commercial world, 
while the men of no trade, business, nor profession, take 
higher rank, nor attain greater prestige. 

Humble and meek and timid though they may be, yet 
by sheep, have men of all ages and all nations, won the way 
to dignified positions of honor, wealth, and power. In 
sheep, the master livestock breeders of the world, have 
found material which was worthy of their best efforts, not 
only in the molding of form, but also in influencing different 
characteristics of fleece and in addition to these, such 
combinations as are best adapted to varying condi- 
tions of environment. In the improvement of sheep 
have American breeders shown their greatest skill, and 
their product has been sought by the breeders of foreign 
lands, as has no other class of live stock. In a century they 
have doubled the average weight of carcass, and more 
than trebled the average weight of fleece, besides having 
made great improvements in form and in character of 
fleece. 

The farmer who raises sheep should take great 
pride in his flock, and give it his best efforts. He should 
be proud of the fact that no man's calling rests on more 
ancient, more universal, or more noble foundation, serves 
a more necessary, more useful, nor more beneficial pur- 
pose, nor provides greater profit, pleasure, or prestige. 

Page Sixty- five 




Lamb Feeding 

From "Modern Sheep; Breeds and Management" by "Shepherd Boy." 
Published by the American Sheep Breeder Co., Chicago. 

HE main features in fattening lambs, are to get 
good lambs and good feed, and then a careful 
feeder to feed them. Sometimes when the 
lambs are not thriving properly, a change of ra- 
tions will bring about an improvement, but of course 
the change from green rations to those of a dry nature 
must be gradual, or trouble will crop up. One of the 
greatest errors that the novice is liable to fall into, is 
stuffing his lambs. He does not seem to consider that 
it is not the amount of feed given, so much as it is the 
amount assimilated, that brings the desired results. 
As the author has often pointed out in his earlier writ- 
ings, the lamb feeder needs to see his lambs before eat- 
ing, during the time of eating and after they have eaten, 
to know how they are doing. 

One of the most important considerations in lamb 
feeding, where you raise your own lambs, is to keep them 
growing rapidly on grass in the summer, and to have 
them in as fine a condition as possible, by fall. 

Lambs, to fatten properly, must be fed regularly 
twice a day, morning and evening. Regularly does not 
mean five o'clock one morning and seven or eight o'clock 
the next, nor five o'clock one evening and eight o'clock 
the next. Lambs, to fatten properly, must be fed by 
the watch. 

In an address before the Missouri Improved Live 
Stock Breeder's Ass'n. on feeding lambs, some time ago, 
Jacob Ziegler, of Clinton, 111., said: 

"Lambs should have grain from the time they are 
ten weeks old till the following spring. A trough can 

Page Sixty-six 



LAMB FEEDING 



be set with oats in it, outside of the pasture fence, near 
the watering place, with an opening in the fence for the 
lambs to get to it. They will learn to eat by the time 
they are four months old, at which time they should be 
weaned. In weaning, give them the best green pasture 
you have and what oats they want to eat and plenty of 
good water and salt. They should be kept in that way 
until they are put into winter quarters; then they should 
have from a half pint to a pint equally, of shelled corn 
and oats per day, according to the size and breed of the 
sheep, with all they can eat of good hay. Stockers will 
do well on good hay alone, but better on a variety; add 
a little grain, in stormy weather. A daily ration of one 
pound of grain with straw stover of any kind of rough- 
ness, is a good feed for stockers. 

They can be fattened on various feeds, such as corn, 
peas, beets, barley, oats, clover and grass. They do well 
on either. But for winter feeding, my best results have 
been from corn and clover hay, which fatten fast and 
make the best mutton, and, when all things are con- 
sidered, is as cheap as any, except green clover, which 
produces cheap mutton, but the losses from clover bloat, 
and low price of sheep at that time of year, reduce profits 
in proportion. 

I feed two bushels of corn twice a day at regular 
hours, to 100 sheep (I am speaking of the mutton kind, 
averaging about 100 pounds) and as much clover hay as 
they will eat up clean, which will be on an average of 
about 200 pounds per day. They will however, need 
and eat more at the start, but will decrease in eating 
hay, as the grain ration is increased. Care, however, 
must be taken in starting them on grain, so as not to 

Page Sixty-seven 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



overfeed them. Feed a bushel twice a day to start on, 
then lightly increase daily, till you get them on full feed; 
larger sheep need more and smaller less, in proportion to 
weight. The corn is cut an inch long with a corn cut- 
ter and fed in troughs 10 inches wide, 7 inches deep in 
the clear; 12 to 14 feet long is a nice length, but length 
may be made to suit fancy. The corn may be fed shell- 
ed, but I do not like it so well, for the reason they can 
eat it too fast, and some get more than they need, but 
in cut corn the eating process is slower and better mas- 
ticated, and gives a better chance for all to get their share. 

They should always have free access to fresh water 
and salt, and never be left without it. They do not 
drink so much at a time, but often. Good, thrifty sheep 
thus fed, will fatten and gain from thirty to thirty-five 
pounds each, in seventy-five days, and ought then to go 
to market, for it rarely ever pays to feed them longer. 
The gain, however, will depend largely on their condi- 
tion when put up for feeding. If fairly fat, they don't 
gain as much as if in moderate flesh and thrifty, nor do 
they require as much feeding, nor as long feeding. 

If you have no clover for hay, then sow one-half 
bushels of oats with one bushel of field peas per acre, 
and cut when in dough and cure like hay. It yields big 
and is a fine substitute for clover hay. Corn fodder does 
well, but is not as good as either of the former. 

Never allow feeding sheep grass, in winter. The 
grass is too light and soft to be of any real value to them, 
and the losses in searching and rambling after it and the 
refusal of other feed, more than double the supposed gain. 

The feed lot should be in a dry place and have a 
shed, closed at one side and the ends, and roofed over to 
keep out rain and wind, and both it and the yard should 
be well bedded with corn stalks or litter, to prevent mud 

Page Sixty- eight 



LAMB FEEDING 



and wasting of the manure. A timber lot or small grove 
well set with trees, is a good place to feed in. The 
trees are protection enough without the shed, but in a 
wet winter, a shed is far better and the manure cannot 
be saved as well. 

Salt and hay should always be fed under cover, hay in 
racks and salt in troughs; economy in feeding demands 
this system, for water-soaked hay is always rejected by 
sheep, and rain wastes much salt. 

From my own experience, it pays best to feed 
sheep: first, they return more pounds of gain for the 
amount of food consumed than cattle or hogs, and mut- 
ton brings more per pound, than beef or pork, and fur- 
nishes better manure, than either of the others. 

My sheep have gained, from start of feeding to 
finish, eight to ten pounds of mutton per bushel of corn, 
while the gain of my cattle of equal quality and feed, runs 
from seven to eight pounds. And my hogs eat corn from 
first to last, and only a little grass for change, while my 
sheep eat grass; grass from first to last, and only a little 
corn to start lambs and finish them. That is the cheap 
feed, versus high priced feed. 

And I also find from my shipping bills which I have 
saved for twenty-five years, from 1873 to 1898 that the 
average price received from my stock in Chicago during 
that period was $4.93 per 100 pounds for sheep, $4.86 
for steers, and $4.85 for hogs. And the average weight 
was: Sheep 126/^ pounds, steers 1,354 pounds, and 
hogs, 218/4 pounds. From this you can see they had 
to be all good stock to average that weight. 



Page Sixty-nine 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 




A carload of heavy lambs at the stock yards. 



Marketing Sheep and Lambs 

There is a good deal more in how sheep and lambs 
are marketed than many may think. It does not pay to 
rush sheep to market in a half-fat condition, because 
there happens to be a falling off in shipments at any par- 
ticular time, and record prices have resulted from such 
conditions. Sheep and lambs should be marketed either 
fat or as feeders. In marketing in a half-fat condition, 
the chances are you will be losing money and giving the 
buyer, who likely will be a feeder, the benefit of your 



Page Seventy 



MARKETING SHEEP AND LAMBS 



misjudgment. Rushing stock to market because high 
prices rule for a day or so, is not wise because a 
glut almost always follows. It is important that sheep 
and lambs be properly graded before being shipped, as 
they make a better and more uniform appearance. 
Lambs of moderate quality when properly graded, make 
a much better showing than those of superior quality, 
when marketed in bunch. When shipping, the car 
should be well bedded and everything possible done for 
the comfort of the shipment. It is better to ship to 
well known commission firms, than to be changing around 
from one house to another and falling into the hands of 
those of whom you know nothing. The following are 
the stockyard commission rules as applied to sheep in 
most stockyard markets: Single-deck cars containing 
thirty head or more, $8. Double-deck carloads of sheep, 
$12. Sheep originating in double-deck cars, but for any 
reason arriving in single-deck cars, where double-deck 
freight rates are applied, may be sold at the double-deck 
commission, viz., $12. Less than thirty head of sheep 
in a single car deck, with no other stock in the car, 
shall be charged for at the rate of 15 cents per head. 
Sheep driven or hauled in, 15c per head. 

Feeding and Care of Sheep. 

By HENRY L. WARDWELL, 
Ex.-Pres. Am. Shropshire Reg. Ass'n., Springfield Center, N. Y. 

T'S of no use for a man to buy a good flock of 

sheep and then not take care of them. 

The reason they are good, is first, proper care 

in the selection of ewes and rams, and then 

feed and proper care; and without this a flock 

Page Seventy-one 




SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 




Champion Get of Sire Shropshires from Mr. Wardwell's Pinehurst farm 

master cannot hope for success. 

At the time of mating the ewes with the ram, if 
the ewes are put on an aftermath of flush pasture, they 
are more apt to come in heat and take the ram quicker, 
and this brings your lambs in a shorter time, and the 
lambing is over with more quickly, than if they come 
along, in say two or three months. See that your 
sheep are in a pasture that has shade and water. When 
they come to the barn in winter, give them clover or 
alfalfa hay if obtainable — otherwise, the finer hay. Ewes 
will not do well on timothy, and I think will do as well 
or better, on oat straw. 

Have a rack outside of the barn, say 20 rods away; 
carry their hay to it. The exercise of going this far for 



Page Seventy- two 



MARKETING SHEEP AND LAMBS 



their feed, and the fresh air they get, will tend to keep 
them healthy. See that the old and thin ewes are put 
by themselves; a handful of oats and bran, mixed once a 
day with a little oil meal, will not only help the ewes, 
but bring stronger lambs. 

When the lamb comes, the shepherd should be on 
hand; see that the lamb gets some of the mother's milk 
and that she properly owns it. Put the ewe and her 
lambs in a small pen about 4 feet square, for about two 
or three days until they know each other well, and un- 
til the lamb gets strong enough to keep out of the 
way of the old ewes. After the ewes have lambed, 
they should, if possible, have roots to increase the flow 
of milk. (I am speaking of ewes lambing in February 
and March). The ewes and lambs should have good 
shelter from snow and cold rains at this time, but on 
pleasant days, exercise outside is beneficial. By arrang- 
ing a creep for the lambs, a place where they can go, 
but the mothers cannot, extra feed can be given to 
the lambs. Keep your lambs growing all the time. 
When ten days old, dock your lambs and castrate those 
not kept for rams, at about two weeks old. When your 
lambs are weaned, its a good plan to fast them for 12 
hours, and to give them a drench. The lambs should 
be put on a new pasture, one that has not been 
sheeped before, say on a meadow aftermath. I have 
just cut a field of timothy hay that went nearly, if 
not quite, 3 tons to the acre, that carried lambs last 
year, and I cannot see but what the crop was benefitted. 
At this time we have troughs in the field and the 
lambs are grained, that is, given a handful each of a 
mixture of oats, bran and oil meal or cracked oil cake. 
I prefer the latter. Your lambs should now average 

Page Seventy-three 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



80 or 100 pounds, and are ready for the butcher, if 
graded. If pure bred, to be kept for breeding flocks, 
keep them growing on their grain food, until one year 
old. 

You will probably say this is a lot of trouble; it 
sounds so in print, but it will pay you well and you will 
enjoy the sight of a thrifty flock, and when you come 
to selling them, they will delight the buyer, and you 
will reap your reward, not only in the increase of price, 
which will pay for your trouble, but in the satisfaction 
you will have, in having done your best for the beast. 

Change your sheep to fresh pastures as often as pos- 
sible, even if, after a rest of say two weeks, you go back 
to the old pastures. 



Page Seventy- four 



CLASSIFICATION OF BREEDS 



No breed of domestic sheep is native to this country. 
The various kinds having been imported from Europe 
from time to time, since Coronado brought the first flock 
to New Mexico in 1540. On the other hand, in no 
country, has there been greater advancement of the differ- 
ent types, than we find in the United States. 

The sheep thrives well in our climate and has re- 
sponded readily to the excellent care in breeding and the 
scientific feeding, for which American flockmasters are 
famed. 

For convenience we classify the more prominent 
breeds, according to their fleece, as follows: 

Fine Wool Breeds 

American Merino. Delaine Merino. 

Rambouillet. 



Medium Wool Breeds 

Shropshire. Cheviot. 

Oxford. Suffolk. 

Hampshire. Tunis. 

Southdown. Dorset Horn. 



Long Wool Breeds 

Leicester. Lincoln. 

Cotswold. Wensleydales. 

Page Seventy-five 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 




A State Fair group of American Merinos 

The American Merino. 

This breed is descended from importations made direct- 
ly from Spain, in the early part of the last century. Early 
development was largely toward wrinkly, oily, heavy 
fleeced sheep, the object being to secure density and 
weight of fleece. This type is known as the "A" Mer- 
ino or "Vermont" Merino. 

The present tendency is to breed larger, smoother 
sheep, with plain, smooth bodies, longer wool, compara- 
tively free from grease; these are known as Merino B" 
type. The face is white and the head closely capped 
with wool, extending down onto the bridge of the nose 
and surrounding the eyes. The ears are small, pointed 
and covered with wool and a growth of soft hair. The 
horns of the ram spring strong and completely clear the 
face. The wool staples are from 2 to 3 inches long. 



Page Seventy-six 



BREEDS 




Rambouillet Ewe, from the flock of King Bros., Laramie, Wyo. 

The Rambouillet. 

This breed originated in Spain, from where it was im- 
ported to the Royal Estates in Rambouillet, France, in 
1786. From here the first importations to the United 
States were made in 1840. Rambouillets are pure blood 
Merinos, having all the essential Merino characteristics 
and are recognized as a good breed for wool and mutton 
combination. The wool is of fine, to medium fine grade, 
with a staple of 2>2 to 4 inches. This breed is the larg- 
est of the Merinos and is rapidly increasing in popularity 
throughout this country. Rambouillets are easily kept, 
well adapted to range countries, and the lambs are uni- 
formly large, weighing from 80 to 100 lbs. at 6 months old. 



Page Seventy-seven 




A Typical Delaine Merino Ewe. 

The Delaine Merino. 

This breed is of the same origin as the American Mer- 
ino, but the aim in breeding, has been to secure a long, 
fine staple of wool, free from grease, and a smoother 
form. The Delaine Merino has been enlarged and 
smoothed by the development of a tendency to take 
on flesh. The fleece covers the entire body, including 
the head and legs, and is comparatively free from wrink- 
les. The nose is short and broad with well expanded 
nostrils. The breed was first developed in Pennsylvania 
and Ohio, and is recognized as a hardy, long-lived sheep, 
especially suited to sections where the climate is change- 
able, and where it is necessary to run them in large 
flocks on short, scanty herbage. 



Page Seventy- eight 




Champion Shropshire Ram from the flock of McKerrow & Sons, 
Pewauhee, Wis. 

The Shropshire. 

This breed is justly popular, because of the quality and 
quantity of both wool and mutton. It originated in 
what is known as Morfe Commons, England, and is no 
doubt the product of careful selection, as well as cross 
breeding, with the Southdown, Cotswold and Leicester. 
The following are the distinguishing characteristics of 
this breed. The fleece is very dense, about three inches 
long, should part readily and be clear white in color. 
The wool forms a heavy cap between the ears, extending 
down onto the ridge of the nose and joining below the 
eyes with the wool of the cheeks. The ears should be 
far apart, pointed, moderately thick and covered to the 
tip with fine, curly wool. The legs and face should be 
marked in a rich dark brown color. No evidence what- 
ever of horns should be seen. 

Page Seventy-nine 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



r ; 




Hampshire Ram owned by C. O. Judd, Kent, Ohio 

The Hampshire. 

This breed is a native of Hampshire, England, and is 
noted for its large, strong frame and hardy constitution. 
The head is moderately large, but not coarse, and well 
covered with wool on the forehead and cheeks. The 
nostrils are wide, the eyes prominent and lustrous, the 
ears moderately long and thin, and dark brown or black 
in color. The legs are black, straight and well under 
the outside of body. The back is straight, with 
full spring of ribs. The neck is set high up on body. 
The wool is moderately short, dense and strong in fibre. 
Lambs of this breed develop rapidly, attaining a heavy 
weight at an early age. 

Page Eighty 



BREEDS 




Southdown Ewe owned by Chas. Leet & Son, Mantua, Ohio 

The Southdown. 

This popular breed is the oldest pure breed of short 
wooled sheep, having originated on the Downs of Sussex, 
in England. The general characteristics are a symmetri- 
cal, compact body, with very refined features, short, mod- 
erate sized head, small pointed ears, brown or gray face, 
with forehead and cheeks covered with wool; the neck 
is very short and straight, the breast broad and full; the 
back straight, well covered and knit closely. The loin is 
wide, straight and smooth. The hips are wide, but not 
prominent. Horns are entirely absent. The fleece is 
very fine and dense; the wool of medium length and 
especially uniform in quality. 



Page Eighty- one 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 




Champion Oxford Ewe owned by McKerrow & Sons, Pewaukee, Wis. 

The Oxford. 

This comparatively modern breed originated in the 
county of Oxford, England, from crossing the Cotswold 
and Hampshire breeds. The head of the Oxford differs 
from the Shropshire, in being longer, and not so densely 
wooled below the eyes. The ear is slightly larger and 
longer. The face and legs are marked in gray or brown. 
Short legs, well apart and placed squarely under the 
body, add to the contour. A heavy fleece, moderately 
open, and of a long, strong fiber, cover the heavy body. 
When matured, the Oxford Down is large in size and 
strong in frame. It is a prolific breed and combines the 
early maturity, and ample fleece of the Cotswold, .with 
the fine wool and mutton of the Downs. 

Page Eighty- two 



BREEDS 




Dorset Horn Ewe owned by The University of Illinois, Champaign, III. 

The Dorset Horn. 

This was originally a mountain breed of sheep, native 
to Dorsetshire and Somersetshire, in the south of Eng- 
land. Careful breeding has modified this type consider- 
ably, so the Dorset of today shows an excellent form, 
long and round bodied, but compactly built. A white 
face, large nostrils, small horns gracefully curved for- 
ward and rather close to the jaws, characterize the 
Dorset. The eyes are bright and prominent, the head is 
well covered with wool on the crown, and the ears are 
moderately large and covered with short, white hair. 
The neck is strongly set, shoulders are broad and full, 
back flat and straight and the quarters wide and full. 
The fleece is of medium grade and of even quality. 



Page Eighty-three 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 




Cheviot Ram and Ewe owned by J. R. Nash, Tipton, Ind. 



The Cheviot. 

This breed is characterized by hardiness and unusual 
activity. This is no doubt due to the fact that they have 
been bred and raised on the hills of Scotland for more 
than 200 years. Originating in the Cheviot Mountains, 
Cheviot sheep are today the most common sheep on the 
Scotch border. The animals are pert, active, bright 
eyed, ears are fine and the face keen, pure white and 
free from wool from the ears forward, without any indi- 
cation of horns. The chest is deep, the girth full, and 
the back rather short, but strong, and the body is particu- 
larly low set and covered with long, dense fleece of fine 
texture. The legs are white, free from wool to the 
knees and hocks, and the hoofs are black. 



Page Eighty-four 



BREEDS 






A flock of Tunis sheep 



The Tunis Sheep. 

The first pair of Tunis or broad tailed sheep was im- 
ported to this country from Tunis, in 1799. They have 
a broad, straight, well proportioned body with wide 
breast. The head is small, hornless and tapers to the 
nose. Face and nose free from wool. Color of face and legs 
brown or white; the ears are broad, thin and hanging 
or pendulous; color, brown or fawn and covered with 
fine hair. The fleece is of medium length, quality and 
quantity; sometimes tinctured with gray. The tail, after 
docking the small end, is fan shaped or tapering five or 
ten inches broad and six or eight inches long, well cov- 
ered with wool. This breed matures and lambs early. 



Page Eighty-five 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



Cotswold Ewe 

The Cotswold. 

The Cotswold is a native of the Cotswold Hills in 
Gloucestershire, England. It is one of the oldest breeds, 
as well as one of the largest, most finished and uniform. 
The animal of this breed is remarkably square of body, 
with somewhat long face, colored white, or slightly mixed 
with grey or brown and with a beautiful tuft of wool 
falling over the face. The ears are small, the back is 
long and broad, and the hind quarters are square. It 
has a long, lustrous and wavy fleece with a strong fiber 
and parts naturally into locks. In spite of the promi- 
nence which mark the eyes, they are mild and expressive. 
The Cotswolds are very prolific and fatten rapidly. 

Page Eighty -six 



BREEDS 




Typical Leicester Ram and Ewe 



Leicesters. 

This breed is the father of all the long wool breeds, 
having originated in Leicestershire, England, in the 18th. 
century. The face is bare and pure white, the body is 
square and the forequarters are especially full and the 
hind quarters rounded at the top peculiarly. This breed 
is fine of bone, and the fleece is remarkably fine and lus- 
trous, considering its length, which frequently measures 
five to six inches. The legs of this breed are bare to 
considerably above the knee and hock, and marked a pure 
white, like the face. Leicesters have hardy constitutions, 
are good breeders, and produce a wealth of wool; their 
fleece frequently weighs from 21 to 28 lbs. They are 
especially popular in Canada. 



Page Eighty-seven 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 




A prize-winning Lincoln Ram, owned by W. I. Woodcock, Corvallis. Ore. 



Lincolns. 

This is one of the largest of the long wooled breeds, 
vying with the Cotswold for first position. Lincoln sheep 
originated in Lincolnshire, England, and occupy a prom- 
inent position today, both as wool growers and producers 
of mutton. They are squarely built, faces pure white, 
somewhat long and surmounted by a tuft of wool. The 
back is wide, level and the hind quarters are unusually 
well developed. Their wool is long in fibre, lustrous 
and very strong. Lincolns mature early and fatten 
rapidly. 

Page Eighty- eight 



BREEDS 



The Suffolk. 



According to the Suffolk Sheep Society Flock Book of 
England, where this breed originated, and is still largely 
confined, the typical Suffolk should be characterized by 
lack of horns, long black face, muzzle, moderately fine, 
medium length ears, black and of fine texture; eyes 
bright and full. The neck should be of moderate length, 
shoulders broad and oblique, chest deep and wide, back 
long and level, with broad tail, well set up. The legs 
are straight and black wooled to the knees and hocks, 
and clean below. The fleece is moderately short, close 
and of fine fiber, without tendency to mat or shade off 
into darker colors. The Suffolk sheep is especially prized 
for the fine quality of its mutton. 



Wensleydales. 

This breed is comparatively unknown in America, but 
one of recognized merit in England where it originated. 
In general form, the Wensleydale sheep perhaps resemble 
the Leicesters most closely. The face is dark, the ears 
dark and well set on, the head is broad and flat between 
the ears, with a tuft of wool on the forehead. The eyes 
are bright and full; the neck is moderately long, 
shoulders broad, chest deep and wide, back broad with 
well sprung ribs. The tail is broad, the legs are straight, 
with a little fine wool below the hocks and the fleece is 
long, bright, lustrous and well curled all over the body. 

Page Eighty-nine 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 




Diseases 

OOD fat sheep are the result of care- 
ful raising and seeing to it that every 
ounce of food they eat is converted 
into so much mutton and wool. The 
best results cannot be obtained if worms are 
allowed to infest the flock. These ravenous 
pests cause fully 90 per cent of all the losses 
in sheep raising. And since it is impossible 
to keep sheep together without these pests 
developing, everysheep raisermustlook sharp 
to prevent worms from doing fatal damage. 

Where sheep are given good care and proper feed- 
ing, the danger of disease is of course greatly reduced. If 
they are protected against sudden changes in temperature 
and kept free from stomach and intestinal worms, your 
losses should amount to very little. No domestic animal 
responds more readily to kind treatment, and the watch- 
ful shepherd will be amply repaid for the care he exer- 
cises in handling his flock. It is always preferable to 
feed the flock in the yard, as you can then more readily 
detect any indisposition among them. If a sheep fails to 
eat, look to the cause and remove it promptly. Do not 
try to force the animal to partake of food, unless it has 
gone without for several days; then a flaxseed meal or 
oatmeal porridge should be given. A sheep that chews 
its cud is not very sick. As soon as any member of the 
flock shows signs of sickness, it should be separated at 
once from the rest of the flock, and especial attention 
given to it. 

Page Ninety 



DISEASES 



Distemper 

In the early stages of the disease, there is a slight 
watery discharge from the nostrils and eyes, a general 
depression and loss of appetite. Coughing is seldom no- 
ticed unless the bronchial tubes are affected. At the end 
of a week, the discharge becomes thicker and the eyes 
half closed. Separate the afflicted animals from the 
rest of the flock and place "Sal-Vet" where each flock 
can run to it freely. It will act as a preventive on the 
well ones, and will quickly improve the digestion and 
general health of the sick ones. It tones up the entire 
system, purifies the blood, makes the bowels active and 
puts the animal in the best possible condition for recov- 
ery. It is also advisable to spray the pens and feeding 
troughs, with a disinfectant such as a strong solution of 
carbolic acid. 



"I do not see how any stockman can do without 'Sal -Vet' 
It certainly has made money for me. Last fall my sheep were 
caught in a hail storm and became quite sick from exposure; 
they coughed a great deal, and were in bad condition generally. 
At that time I just happened to be out of 'Sal -Vet,' and you 
may be sure I missed it greatly. I immediately got another 200 
pound barrel, and in a very short time every sheep on the place 
was again in fine condition. I have forty lambs and have not 
lost a single one. Furthermore, I have not had a sick hog on 
the place, although hogs have died all around here. ' ' 

Peter Bally, Wichita, Kans. 



"I am well pleased with the results following the use of 
'Sal -Vet' Since using it, my sheep have stopped coughing and 
show no more symptoms of worms. Furthermore, my ewes 
have produced a fine lot of lambs this spring. ' ' 

Smith Hines, Hopkins, Mo. 

Page Ninety-one 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



Grubs 

Sheep, especially those that graze in brush and 
woodlands, are in danger of being troubled with grubs. 
They are caused by the bot or gad fly lighting on the 
animal's nose and crawling up into the nostril and de- 
positing its eggs. The breathing of the sheep draws 
them up into the nasal passages between the eyes, and 
here the eggs hatch out. The bot fly has been the con- 
stant annoyance of the flock masters for centuries and is 
mentioned in ancient history. Some authorities claim 
that grub in the head does not harm sheep and could not 
cause death. It is very evident that the grub in the head 
is not necessary or beneficial to animals, as some have 
erroneously said. It is not reasonable to suppose that the 
sensitive membranes in the sinuses of the head of so frail 
an animal, were intended to harbor such vicious, irritating 
parasites. The following brief description of the inter- 
mediate stage of this fly, during its stay in the host (the 
sheep) will settle this question in the mind of the average 
breeder or feeder of sheep: 

The fly darts to the nose of the sheep and before 
the animal can dodge or protect itself, the fly deposits the 
larvae, usually in a well developed state, on the nose of 
the sheep. The parasites, by the aid of hooks on each 
side of its head and the small points encircling the body, 
crawl up the nostrils and into the frontal sinuses, attach- 
ing themselves to the sensitive membranes, and there, 
either by irritation or by absorption, drys or uses up the 
natural secretions, causing inflammation or catarrh. 
When the larvae is first deposited on the nose of the 
sheep, it is about the size of a meat maggot. The per- 
iod of infection, depending upon the weather, is from 
the first of June to the last of August. When the grub 

Page Ninety-two 



DISEASES 



is mature, it is about the size of a navy bean. The larvae 
when deposited and until half grown, is of a creamy 
white at the head, gradually shading darker toward the 
extremity. At maturity the head is of light color and 
the body nearly black. The mature grub has about 
twelve segments or shell-like rings, with sharp point pro- 
jections encircling its body; these are used in crawling. 
In crawling the body elongates, showing flexible tissue 
between the segments. In contracting, the lateral part 
is brought forward, and the movement is made possible 
by the points on the segments. 

In the following spring, when the grub becomes ma- 
ture and about to form into a pupa stage, it passes out of 
the nasal cavity into the natural openings of the head, 
and during April or May, they are thrown out to the 
ground by the animal sneezing or coughing. When on 
the ground, the grub buries itself under litter or surface 
vegetation. Here it contracts itself until the shell-like seg- 
ments completely envelop it, forming an egg-shape pupa. 
In thirty to sixty days, according to the weather, a small 
cap piece is removed and the fly emerges, going about 
annoying the sheep and doing its part in producing 
its kind. The fly has no mouth, therefore, does not 
take nourishment; its life is about sixty days. The 
grubs in the head of sheep, rarely of themselves cause 
death and the sheep seldom show symptoms of the pres- 
ence of the grub, until about the time of their migration 
in the spring, except when present in numbers sufficient 
to fill the cavities, causing inflammation and producing 
abscesses and softening the structure surrounding the 
brain, enabling the grub to ' reach the cerebrum. 
In such cases the animal becomes bewildered, roams 
about the field without taking food, turns in circles, 

Page Ninety-three 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



raises its head high and suffers severe pain. No doubt 
the grub in the head, assisted by any of the various other 
parasites with which our American flocks are known to 
be troubled, have caused many fatalities. The location of 
the grub in the head is about half way from the opening of 
the nose and the crown of the head and just back of the 
nostril passage, in the sinuses just about the eyes, and in 
horned sheep are sometimes in the hollow base of the horn. 

No positive cure has ever been found, but some 
authorities advise the use of snuff and linseed oil, to be 
injected into the nostrils. This causes the afflicted 
animal to sneeze and to expel the grub. 

Other authorities, however, recommend this opera- 
tion: A trephine may be used and a circular disc of bone 
cut from over the location of the grubs. This may be 
done by cutting a circular flap of skin somewhat larger 
than the opening, to be made in the bone, leaving the 
skin attached on the upper side. After the bone is re- 
moved and the grubs taken out the flap should be re- 
placed and held in position by plasters or stitched with 
surgeons' suture. Antiseptics should be used freely in all 
such operations. 

Prevention of grub, however, is much easier and 
more dependable than a cure. By occasionally smearing 
a little pine tar on the noses of the sheep they will not 
be bothered by flies and danger of grub will be elimi- 
nated. 

This can also be automatically applied, by smearing 
the bottom of the feed trough with pine tar. 

Page Ninety-four 



DISEASES 



FLUKE WORMS 



Fluke Worms 

By grazing in lowlands and in wet places, after 
infected animals, Fluke Worms (Liver Rot) may be 
contracted by sheep and lambs. These parasites are 
small and flat and infect the liver, which organ they 
destroy, when found in large num- 
bers. Severe attacks are usually 
fatal. 

SYMPTOMS : Rub the skin 
of the sheep backward and forward 
at the small of the back, and there 
is a crackling feeling, as though 
there were water underneath. 
When taken between the thumb 
and fingers, the skin is soft and 
flabby. There is a weakness or 
tenderness about the loins, the eyes 
become jaundiced — there are 

diarrhoea and stupor. Often, too, the animal becomes 
dropsical, which condition is noticed on the belly and 
under the jaws. 

Isolate the animals in a high, dry pasture, and feed 
them SAL-VET. It will destroy the parasites while still 
in the stomach, before they have entered the liver. 

The remedy lies in destroying them before their 
passage from the stomach. Have a supply of "Sal-Vet" 
where your sheep may have access to it ; they'll doctor 
themselves. 




Adult 
Liver 
Flukes 
(About two-thirds natur- 
al size.) 



"I wish to testify to the value of 'Sal -Vet,' as it saved my 
flock of sheep. I had a friend who cared for his flock in the 
same way, but omitted to give them access to "Sal -Vet." He 
lost nearly every sheep in his flock. ' ' 

J. R. Glendenning, New Martinsville, W. Va. 



Page Ninety- five 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



Lung Worms 

Lung Worms get into the air passages of the lungs 
of sheep. The afflicted animal coughs, gaps, rubs its 
nose upon the grass, and gives other indications of irrita- 
tion of the respiratory organs. The breathing is labored; 
there is a discharge of mucous from the nostrils. 




Lung worms (about twice natural size) 

Although the appetite is not impaired in the early 
stages, still the animal remains thin, and death usually 
follows. Fatalities caused by lung worms, occur usually 
during the winter and early spring months. 

Sheep and lambs get the eggs or larvae of the lung 
worm, with grass, feed or water. The theory is, that in 
the stomach, these eggs are rapidly developed, and very 
minute parasites enter the circulation, and finally find 
lodgment in the air passages of the lungs. When once 
there, no remedy taken into the stomach will destroy 
them, but the disease is preventable by destroying the 

Page Ninety-six 



DISEASES 



parasite while still in the stomach, before it has entered 
the circulation. 

Keep SAL-VET constantly before the sheep and 
lambs in the pasture and feeding pens. Feed it to the 
ewes while in winter quarters, and give the lambs access 
to it from the time they go on pasture. 



Stomach Worms 

If you are familiar with the raising of sheep, you 
know the dreaded symptoms showing stomach worm 
infection. The animal moves about with laggard step, 
drooping ears and dull eyes. There is a loss of weight 
— sometimes colic and later diarrhoea. The skin is pale 




The Twisted Stomach Worm (about twice natural size) 

instead of pnk. As stomach worms are found in the 
fourth stomach, they interfere with the digestion to such 
an extent that the animal practically starves to death. 
To get more and better wool and mutton, you must get 
rid of the worms. 



Page Ninety-seven 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



Infection by these deadly parasites comes from 
pastures on which sheep have been grazing for some 
time. The infected animals drop the eggs from which 
the larvae are developed. These work their way to the 
tops of the grass blades; the grazing animals take them, 
and the trouble begins. 

In the Central States alone, three million lambs 
have been killed in a single year, by stomach worms. 

The logical plan to prevent pastures becoming 
badly infected, is to first rid your ewes of the worms. 
Begin while they are in winter quarters ; keep up the 
fight after they have returned to grass. You can do 
much toward rendering them powerless to further infect 
your pastures. 

As a preventive, lambs should be given access to 
'Sal- Vet" from the time they first go on pasture. 




Intestinal Worms (enlarged) 



Page Ninety- eight 



DISEASES 



Most of the prominent breeders successfully keep 
their stock worm-free and in the pink of condition by 
simply keeping 




where the animals may have free access to it, so that 
they may doctor themselves. Try this plan yourself. 

You will be amply rewarded by the knowledge that 
your pastures are clean, and parasitic infection among 
your lambs reduced to the minimum, or entirely 
eliminated. 



"It affords me great pleasure to give this testimonial of the 
value of your miraculous cure, 'Sal -Vet.' Our sheep became 
infested with stomach worms and were dying almost daily. 
Learning of the remarkable cures accomplished by 'Sal-Vet,' I 
decided to try it. Much to my surprise, I have not had the loss 
of a single sheep since. 'Sal -Vet' does exactly as you claim. It 
is a money saver to every stock owner who will use it. ' ' 

John E. Templin, Blanchester, Ohio. 



"My sheep are all anxious and always eager for 'Sal -Vet,' 
and it is doing them a lot of good. They were infested with 
stomach worms on account of their being kept on the same pas- 
ture for three consecutive years. 'Sal -Vet' affords a cheap 
method of ridding both sheep and pastures of these deadly para- 
sites. ' ' Thomas Brennan, Garretson, S. D. 



"I have fed 'Sal-Vet' to my sheep which were infected with 
stomach worms, and can say I have lost but a single lamb since 
feeding it." G. W. Pfoutz, New Sharon, la. 

Page Ninety-nine 



SAL- VET SHEEP BOOK 



NODULAR DISEASE 
How to Diagnose and Prevent 

Nodular Disease is caused by parasites which thrive 
and do their deadly work in the bowels, liver and con- 
necting tissue, of sheep. The parasites are taken up 
with feed or water, and burrow into the lining of the 
intestines. Small nodules or lumps are formed, the 
assimilation of food is checked, and the action of the 
bowels retarded. 

While the animal may gain weight at first, strength 
is soon lost. Later the weight is lost, too, the skin and 
wool become dry and hard, the bowels irregular, and, in 
severe cases, death follows. 

If taken while the parasite is still in the stomach, 
and before it has passed into the intestines and imbedded 
itself into the membrane, "Sal-Vet" will destroy the 
worms and prevent further infection in the flock. 

Lambs having constant access to "Sal-Vet" from 
the time they first go on grass, usually escape infection. 



" 'Sal -Vet' worked finely on my sheep; I had one valuable 
ram in particular that I expected to lose. He grew very poor 
and went down every day, and by the time the 'Sal -Vet' arrived, 
he was so weak he could not eat. I forced him to take some of 
the 'Sal -Vet.' He picked up quickly and is now sound and 
lively as ever." E. J. Israelson, Vera Cruz, Mo. 



"You may ship me another barrel of 'Sal-Vet, ' as I find that 
I have had less loss this summer while using 'Sal- Vet' for my 
sheep and lambs, than ever before during my ten years' ex- 
perience in breeding sheep. ' ' Percy Brown, 

Spring Hill, Tenn. 

Page One Hundred 



DISEASES 



Tape Worms 

Tape worms are ribbon-like gluttons, which annually 
reduce sheep raisers' profits enormously. It is no unusual 
occurrence to lose an entire flock of lambs afflicted with 



Tape Worms sometimes attain length 
of 15 Feet. 




tape worms, by the scouring, which is coincident with 
the disease. 

Sheep so infected do not fatten, and the growth of 
the wool is materially diminished. There may be from 
two to twenty-five of these worms in a single animal, 
although as many as a hundred have been found in one. 

Tape worms thrive in all seasons, and when present, 
nearly every sheep in the flock will be affected. 



"Our sheep and lambs were badly infested with stomach 
worms, and some tape worms. We tried to doctor them with 
stock food, turpentine, linseed oil, gasoline and other things, and 
lost about fifty lambs while experimenting with the above. We 
heard of your 'Sal-Vet' and have been feeding it for about two 
months. It has been a wonderful help, as we have lost only one 
lamb since feeding it. We cannot speak too highly of 'Sal -Vet.'" 

Gwillim & Son, Medora, 111. 

Page One Hundred One 



SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK 



"A few days after feeding 'Sal -Vet' some of my lambs be- 
gan to pass great fragments of tape worms and continued to do 
so for nearly a week, after which they made extraordinary 
growth. My colts have done equally well." 

S. W. Sevits, R. D. No. 2, Danville, 111. 



"1 have been feeding 'Sal -Vet' to my sheep and horses and 
have noticed from the start that the sheep have passed a large 
number of tape worms. Am highly pleased with this result and 
know the preparation is all you claim. ' ' 

Abram Bolton, F. D. No. 2, Danville, 111. 



"Please send me another 100 pound keg of 'Sal- Vet' as soon 
as possible. It is certainly a great worm destroyer. I have used 
it for over a year and it has saved lots of my lambs. They be- 
gin to eat it when only two and three days old. 

Geo. L. Voorhees, Lebanon, N. J. 



"Until about two years ago, when I commenced to feed 
'Sal-Vet' to my sheep, I lost enough in two years from worms, to 
pay the duty on my wool for fifty years, if shipped into this 
country; but since I have been using 'Sal -Vet' I have never lost 
one, and they keep in perfect health. 

"The stomach worm is the greatest detriment in the South 
to the sheep industry, but 'Sal- Vet' is the remedy; there 
may be others, but I tried tobacco stems, with no good results. ' ' 
R. L. Wallace, Route No. 1, Knoxville, Tenn. 



"We usually figure on a loss of one to three per cent by 

death. This year we kept 'Sal -Vet' before our sheep all the 

time, and have not had a single sick sheep, although we have 

fattened for the market during the winter, over a thousand head. ' ' 

J. W. F. Thomas & Son, Delphi, Ind. 



"I have not lost a single sheep since I began feeding 'Sal- 
Vet.' Last winter, without its use, I lost 25 per cent of my 
flock." Chas. E. Wyman, 

Pekin, Ind. 

Page One Hundred Two 



State Agricultural Experiment Stations and 
Colleges Endorse 




From Ohio State University; College of Agriculture. 

"We have used 'Sal -Vet' with excellent satisfaction, and 
while we have not obtained information as to the absolute effect 
on our sheep, they consumed the preparation with results which 
appear to us to corroborate your statement, that it is desirable 
for discouraging the development of worms, and keeping sheep 
in a good condition. ~=*>mGQ 

"I believe that 'Sal-Vet' will repay the user, in the results 
which come from its action in his flock." 

C. S. Plumb, B. Sc, Prof, of Animal Husbandry. 



From Oklahoma Experiment Station. 

"Please send us another shipment of 'Sal-Vet' We en- 
deavor to keep a constant supply of 'Sal-Vet' before our sheep, 
particularly at this time of the year when there is greatest 
danger of lambs and sheep contracting stomach worms and 
other parasitic diseases. " W. A. Linklater, 

Animal Husbandman. 



From California College of Agriculture. 

"We received the 'Sal -Vet' some time ago and are feeding 
it to our breeding sheep. It is doing the work in fine shape." 
J. J. Thompson, Dept. Animal Husbandry. 



From North Carolina College of Agriculture. 

"In my live stock work here in North Carolina I have had 
an opportunity to recommend your 'Sal- Vet' to a number of 
stockmen. Having used it at New Hampshire College last year 
and year before, I am in a position to know its great value. 
Our cattle have done well ever since we began using 'Sal-Vet,' 
and I am always glad to recommend an article that is as good 
as the one you are placing on the market. ' ' 

John C. McNutt, Prof. Dept. Animal Husbandry. 

Page One Hundred Three 



Additional Experiment Station Endorsements 



From Iowa State College. 

"We have been using 'Sal -Vet' for the past two years; to 
tell the truth, we are somewhat surprised at the good results we 
have secured with it. Our lambs have been quite free from 
serious parasitic trouble, and as the 'Sal -Vet' has been fed faith- 
fully during the period mentioned, we consider it a vermifuge of 
considerable merit. We know that our pastures are infected 
with stomach worms, and feel that 'Sal-Vet' has been respon- 
sible for keeping the losses from this source, down to a mini- 
mum." John M. Evvard, Experimentalist, 

Iowa State College. 



From Connecticut Agricultural College. 

"We have used 'Sal -Vet' with good effect on our sheep. 
Our lambs have never done so well as this spring." 

L. A. Clinton, Director. 



From North Carolina Experiment Station. 

"We find 'Sal-Vet' a very satisfactory worm exterminator, 
and are very much pleased with results. ' ' 

R. S. Curtis, Animal Husbandman. 



From Nashville Agricultural and Normal Institute, 
Madison, Tenn. 

"After making a number of interesting tests on our sheep, 
I am confident that 'Sal-Vet' will destroy worms." 

E. A. Sutherland, President. 



From South-East Alabama Experiment Station, Abbeville, Ala. 

" 'Sal-Vet' has been of great service to us. It has kept our 
hogs and pigs free from worms, and furthermore, has demon- 
strated that it is a splendid tonic." 

J. Buhrmas Espy, Agriculturist. 



From Texas Agricultural Experiment Station. 

"We are using 'Sal-Vet' with satisfactory results." 
C. N. Alvord, 

Professor of Agriculture. 

Page One Hundred Four 



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